Friday, July 22, 2005

Barcelona Bueno

We left London on separate flights to Barcelona because it turned out I couldn't switch my flight despite being on BA too. Which wasn't much of a problem cos I just got a cab to Zenit Hotel where J had already checked in. Pleased to be in Spain (his first time and my third), we went for a Spanish set dinner (9euros each) at a nearby cafeteria where we tucked into paella, fritada paseodo and huevos. The Chinese waiter Zheng spoke to us in Cantonese, which was quite a hoot!

The next day, we topped up with jamon and egg tortilla at the brekkie table and then headed for the famous Familia Sagrada, 2 metro stops away. Barcelona was really compact and we soon realised we could walk everywhere easily, although the summer heat was no joke. James didn't seem all that impressed with the ugly construction around the Sagrada (imagine it's not completed yet!) and I had seen and climbed it before, so we went to view the facade of Casa Mila La Pedrera (long queue) and stroll down Passeig de Gracia (main shopping boulevard) where you could find all kinds of brands from LV to Zara (the store freakin big man!)

To seek refuge from the sun, we paid 16 euros and popped into Antonio Gaudi's other genius work - Casa Batllo - which was a warped fantasy, like a vision of a child on coke. The organic curves were sensual and playful, and the manipulation of natural materials like glass, wood, iron and stone was utterly stunning. The ceiling cornice was twisted like a torpedo and the oversized windows looked out to different time zone.

A much needed pitstop was found at Sumum, a trendy med-fusion bar & restaurant where J tried to practise his Spanish (he bought a handy dictionary!) with the pretty but cold as an anchovy waitress. We easily finished the big cold jug of Sangria with a plate of our favourite anchoas da l'escala - I kid you not that Spain has the best ever anchovies! As the locals have their dinner really late at past 11pm (I'm serious), we had a siesta first till 10.30pm and got to the crowded La Rambla for a piece of action.

We didn't fancy any of the touristy bars or restaurants there so we trotted hungrily down to the port (no cabs in sight!) and luckily managed to track down 7 Portes @ 14 Pg Isabel II www.7puertas.com among a dodgy quiet row of defunct buildings. At 11pm, the paella specialist and seafood restaurant (since 1836) was packed with diners and fortunately the hostess took us in after giving us a discreet glance-over (heng ah, we are not sloppy).

As we studied the menu, I also surveyed the elegant restaurant, charming in an old-school way but yet modern with its puffy lampshades, black-white tiles and gorgeous collection of framed antique posters in eclectic styles from each decades. The service was polished and immaculate, as we got down to business and ordered the mixed paella (20 euros, I couldn't decide between the seafood or meat lah), Seynor Cortina's oven-baked langostinos (24 euros) and a half bottle of Codorniu semi-sec cava (6,90euros only!!!).

At 62 euros ($130), the meal was five-star and worth every penny as J sucked on his gloriously baked langostinos with garlic and butter, and my gigantic paella brimming with ingredients was presented with a flourish by the server and then promptly served up on a dinner plate. The seafood was perfectly cooked and each grain was al dente and bursting with flavour in a rich brown stock with burnt chao-tah bits. We were both very happy cats... so happy we came back 2 nights later whereby I had the simply grilled monkfish with patate (20euros) and he the langostinos again - loco (mad)!

We also had an excellent appetiser platter (13,50euros) comprising anchovies, fresh boiled seafood, white & black sausage, fritada calamari, salt cod fritter, croquette, sweet piquillo pepper, bread and aioli (garlic mayo). The second night, the service standard slipped as the waiter forgot to give us the special tool for the langostinos which were a tad overcooked and dry too. This goes to show dining experiences are so subjective and different each time. But still, do check it out if you have the chance!

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