Tuesday, August 16, 2005

Venezia bella

After bidding fair Verona farewell, I caught the extremely packed 10.45am train (9,40 euros) to Venezia, the land of gondolas and squid ink pasta. Though I had been there in 1997, I thought it'd be lovely to visit the water city again before it gets flooded in future and who knows when I would get the chance again.

The weather was erratic; in the day it got really warm and by evening, it got cold especially with the pending rain or winds. I felt like a Sangiovese grape, wrinkling in the heat and cooled by the evening breeze! The temperature ranged from 17 to 22 degrees, just like Adrian said in his sms.

At the busy train station, a friendly 2-star hotel owner led me to view his rooms (50 euros) and I dropped my bags promptly for lunch (17 euros) of delicious squid ink pasta with mixed insalata and prosecco (could you tell my addiction to the sparkling vino?). Eating out had become one of my daily pleasures and I'd usually pick a place where I could smoke outside and people-watch.

Forsaking the 5-euros ferry, I embarked on a 2km leisurely stroll through the charming streets, still canals and shops among the throng of tourists, marking the map with my handy highlighter. There were countless decorated churches, palazzi and museums in all styles; Renaissance, Baroque, Gothic, Neoclassical and Veneto-Byzantine - a visual feast for the eyes. Each corner and turn was a photo-opportunity.

Everyone gravitated towards Piazza San Marco where the tri-zillion pigeons got into a feeding frenzy fuelled by the photo-opportunistic crowds, clicking at the birds against the striking St Mark's Basilica and Palazzo Ducale. The queue was crazy and I never made it inside, instead using my imagination to visualise the gleaming golden mosaiced frescos.

Just around the corner was the famous Ponte dei Sospiri, otherwise known as the Bridge of Sighs. Here, prisoners used to drag their feet and sigh between the new and old cells, and it was another popular ponte where tourists lingered on land or in their fancy gondolas for a memorable Kodak shot. I just stood there and gazed at the bridge before someone jostled me out of the space.

The gondolas were still freakin' steep so I took the dry route window-shopping and was tempted to blow 1,500 euros on a gorgeous Bottega Veneta bag (to which Carl went 'are you mad?!), so I bought an affordable pair of comfortable Papillio sandals instead at 38 euros to replace my thinning slippers. Plus my sneakers needed a breather from the vigorous walking or it would start to smell like the canard saucisson from France!

In the evening, the mosquitoes were buzzing out in full force; I hope they won't attack me again like the first time when I woke up with swollen eyelids and itchy hands! After buying my ticket (7,90 euros) for the train to Bologna tomorrow, I had dinner at Ai Scalzi Ristorante at the foot of the Degli Scalzi bridge, serenaded by the accordian busker. The local specialty Seppie alla Veneziana con polenta (11 euros) was truly divine! The fork-tender squid was cooked in its own ink and the thick sauce was mobbed up to the last drop with the fluffy polenta cakes (the texture was like our carrot cake), all washed down with a glass of vino bianco. Perfecto! After that, I slept like a baby to the lull of MTV and the street buzz travelling up to my room.

1 comment:

fernz said...

boy u sure know how to make us drool by your description of the yummy italian food!!!!!