Monday, August 28, 2006

Krabi ciao for now

Four days crept by slowly but surely in paradiso and it was time to say goodbye. Our flight was at 5pm so luckily we could spend a few more precious hours on our favourite isle Railay; careful not to wet F and her fresh tattoo on the boatride. We were dying in the morning heat for our last Thai iced tea but the 2 cafes we came across only served ang-moh Lipton tea (even the local waiter apologised and said 'yes sir, thai tee better, more fray-gance').

Desperate and adamant, we trekked to Railay east and settled for homebrew Thai iced coffee instead at Juat Real Coffee, a little shack of a bar at The Cliffs Man. It probably looked really cool at night illuminated by the fairy lights and candles. In the bright harsh day, it was a run-down make-shift all-in-one club/tattooshop/mobile rockclimbing/laundry stop surrounded by a bed of rubbles and jungle. Two really bored kids looked on as the bar guy happily boiled and strained the local coffee blend into a shaker filled with ice.

It was fascinating to see how they managed to put the place together and I totally respect their sheer resourcefulness. The owner's creativity was also evident judging by the gallery of vivid artworks and prints. Further down the path lined by mangroves, there were more rustic open cafes with low seating patios overlooking the sea. I was sure this whole landscape would cave in to 'progress' and change drastically in 2 years' time. Molto depressing. Go now if you can.

We toasted ourselves for another hour and bid farewell to the friendly lady masseuse who in turn wished us good luck. Back on Aonang, I bargained gamely with the shopkeeper for my last souvenir of a beach towel (260baht). As it was drizzling, we camped at one of the many roti-stalls and indulged in our favourite snack du jour - thin crisp wafers of roti-prata sandwiched with banana and chocolate (15baht only!).

Lunch was a sober affair at Rimpa but we were easily cheered by the most exquisite salad of smoked eggplant, prawns, minced chicken and perfectly half-boiled egg in a velvety piccante dressing. The spicy-sour fish soup with lime made our toes curl while our tastebuds gave a standing ovation to the smoothest red curry with roast duck. Rimpa got 9 out of 10 in my little black book for unbeatable quality and finesse, and was a gratifying full-stop to our memorable holiday in Krabi. No wonder The Cliff was voted one of Thailand's 50 top hotels. Mark it down for the best eats and sleep.

1 comment:

Air said...

could you include pix of F's tattoo as well? I'll be sure to check this place out based on your excellent review. Thanks Carl.

luv
jan