Wat up in Chiang Mai

Sawadee-ka, welcome to Chiang Mai - the 2nd citta' in Thailand that's nestled in the bosom of the gorgeous lush mountains. I've to say I'm absolutely in love with this Lanna Kingdom which certainly exceeded our expectations. It's not as crazy as Bangkok, and alluring in its unpretentious and laidback manner, from its smiley people to the 300+ gleaming wats (temples) and bustling street markets.

In a way, it kinda reminded me of Vientiane in Laos - which is not surprising as they are close neighbours and the borders just a few hours away. Our Sawasdee Guesthouse is located within the old city's fortified walls and moat. The centre is quite compact and is best explored on foot or bicycle. Just a stone's throw away from our stay is the breathtaking Wat Chedi Luang.

Before we contemplated any sightseeing, our first thought was where to find lunch. Relaying on the recommendations of Ming, the guesthouse's owner and Anthony Bourdain, we headed for Huen Phen at 112 Rachamankha Rd - a local instituiton devoted to northeastern Thai cuisine. The restaurant was packed even at 1.30pm - a good sign. We got down to business quickly and ordered the specialty Khao Soi (Burmese curry noodles). They got chicken, pork, fish or beef versions - all equally tasty and cheap.

My dad and L wolfed down the sticky rice, som tam payaya salad, tom yum soup and laap sausage with a kickarse chilli dip. Of course we had a chilled bottle of Singha. Ahhhhh. The meal was that good we came back again on the last day in CM for lunch and whacked the fried pork ribs, crispy chicken and green chili dip - heaven! (Tip: apparently it turns a bit poshy at night and the prices also go up so avoid dinnertime).

For dinner, I asked our inn-keeper for the best place to find Thai grilled chicken Gai yang and he pointed us to Roomjai Kai Yang - a Chiang Mai institution for Isaan northeastern Thai cuisine. Cheap, good and a relaxed atmosphere - the way we like it. The highlight is of course the freshly grilled chickens fragrant and charred on the open pit at the doors (110 baht). Honestly I can eat 1 whole chicken on my own! We also loved the grilled pork neck, ribs, laap, salads, tom yum and lots of sticky rice. Most tuk tuk drivers would know how to get to Ruam-Chai-Gai-Yang around 100m from Chiang Mai Ram Hospital on Boonrueang Rd (just along the fortified walls). You can recognise the yellow signboard with 2 chickens.

With our bellies full, we could tackle the various wats nearby - starting with the magnificent Wat Chedi Luang (circa 1401) that's dominated by a large Lanna-style bricked chedi; partially damaged by an earthquake in the 16th century. Leading up to the stupa are 4 stairways that are guarded by the mythical hissing nagas and elephants. We also paid our respects to the serene albeit a bit eerie wax figurines of the old monks before posing with the glimmering golden reclining Buddha.


Inside the main hall, we were dumbstruck by the ornate ceilings, chandeliers and gigantic Buddhas at the altar. This was the equivalent of a Duomo in Italia. Many people come to the wats to pray and also be blessed by the monks who are schooled from a young age; as seen by the dozens of boys on the grounds. If you're up to it, you can even chat up a monk - for real - as they have a 'Monk Chat Program' (don't laugh!) where you can debate about buddhism, life's goals, Thai culture and maybe even Obama's recent baffling Peace Nobel prize.

Next to Chedi Luang is the quaint but equally stunning Wat Phan Tao with its unique teak structure and intricate wood carvings in northeastern Lanna-style architecture. At the entrance, I noticed a lady with a few tiny woven baskets of birds chirping desperately away for freedom. It's pitiful but we decided it's wiser not to pay her to release the birds as it'd only encourage the unkind trade.

As the official tour guide, I dragged my uncomplaining entourage to another highlight - Wat Phra Singh (circa 1345) home to the Phra Singh Buddha aka Lion Buddha. The grounds of the temple and monastery are well-kept and one should explore the smaller decorated assembly halls. We gawked at the impressive main hall with its high red roof, white columns and large seated Buddha cast in gold and copper, before cooling down with some refreshing guava, papaya and pineapple from a sreet vendor.

Looking at the slightly weary faces of my parents, a break was in order and we marched past the Three Kings monument for an afternoon nap. Later that night, we explored Chiang Mai's famous night bazaar which spans several blocks spilling over into sidewalks, buildings and temple grounds. It was quite touristy and you must bargain. We preferred the bigger Sunday walking market on Rachadamnoen and Prapokklao Road which is more organic as in the way the stalls are set up in every nook and street corner. There are tons to eat from the khao soi, bbq squid, handmade fishballs and rice balls (like arancini which they squash up with spices and minced meat). We can spend hours just exploring every stall selling plants, arts n crafts, home accessories, fashion etc.  Knock yourselves out!