Monday, May 07, 2007

Bohol-mia

On our 3rd day, we decided to make a full day trip to Bohol in search of the beach paradise that we had been promised in the Philippines. Mactan isle was a disappointment with just man-made beaches at the resorts. The hotel did offer their own Bohol excursion which included sights like the world's smallest goggled-eyed tarsier monkeys, chocolate hills, Loboc river but at a steep 3,950 pesos!

We figured we'd do it our way since we just wanted to laze at a beach without costing us an arm and leg. However Bohol was an entirely province on its own and another island away so you could imagine our excitement at having to take a 30-min taxi ride (250 pesos) to the Cebu port and then hopping onto the extremely crowded Ocean Jet. As we arrived close to the departure time at 9.30am, there were only 'business class' seats available at 800 pesos which included a dodgy chilly lasagne and bottle of water during the 95mins journey. Pecora certainly enjoyed the jetride more than us since it was her first time.

Finally when we got to Tagbilaran at 11am, we waved off the small band of tour operators shouting "Maam, you want to see tarsier monkeys?" and jumped into an unsuspecting cab. After bargaining with the guy to 300 pesos, we rode in the worn-out car for another tiresome 30mins to and prayed that Bohol would be worth the trip. I remembered saying to N: 'This could be heaven or hell, man." The tourist office lady had pointed us to Panglao island for the best beaches and since we were starving, we picked out Bohol Beach Club among the coastal properties.

Fortunately our prayers were rewarded as we raced to the beachfront and saw one of the bluest waters, whitest coasts and clearest skies in our lives. It was assolutamente stupenda! N and I couldn't wait to jump right in - only reined in by our hunger which was easily satiated by our favourite lamb stew and chicken adobo (like our chinese-style ginger soy chicken). We only had less than 3 hours in heaven before we had to rush back to the port for the 5.30pm jet but it was still better than niente!

The next few precious hours were a bliss as we posed like Miss Universe finalists and frolicked under the blazing sun that quickly tanned our skin into a bronzy hue. We'd easily just come here next time for the calm waters and sparkling white sand. It wasn't terribly crowded too so that was good, but it was strange that we were the few ones wearing bikinis. The local women were sporting 90s-style colourful one pieces while the Korean/Jap tourists were covered up in long-sleeves and hats.

Soon time passed and we called a cab (500 pesos) to transport us back to the port in time for the return ferry - this time in 'economy' cattle class. The male jet crew actually recognised us and asked how come we were not in business class. Frankly we were too exhausted and sticky from the sweat and sea to even care and just wanted to get back to our air-con resort comfort. But first another 3 hours of travelling await - madonna! At the Cebu port, N and I braved the maddening faceless gang of taxi-drivers at the gate under the dim glow of the street lights and fought the crowds to the long line of waiting cabs. It was quite a day but hey we did it!

Overall Cebu was an experience and certainly not your average cookie-cutter tourist destination. The country was poorer than expected and the city, a grim sight with its many sad slums (next to the spanking new Expo!), rubbish/waste everywhere and general neglect in landscape. One could certainly see the have and have-not clearly.

However the people are its joy (except the horrid cab drivers!) and they have the best mangoes on this planet. We were glad for the adventures and going to places - even deemed 'unsafe' by the locals - hopping onto jeepneys, taking death-defying taxi rides and saw a piece of paradise at Bohol, but that's part of the fun being a global traveller, not a tourist. Next time, we'd just fly straight to the beach!

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