Bali Honey

Okay it's official - now you can call me Signora Artiaco! Si, siamo sposati gia. L and I finally did the deed on 19 September 2012 at the ROM in Singapore - exactly 7 years since we first met at Napoli (when I first started this blog). Who'd have imagined right? :D

Our ROM day was quite stress-free and fun with family and friends. The ROM ceremony was super fast - over in 3mins. I couldn't recall what the JP said but I just remembered crying as it was an emotional moment as she announced us husband and wife. L's mom, sis, nonna and zie saw the video clip and also cried. Many people asked us how we feel; was life any different after? Actually I think we felt a closer bond and deeper connection, and are all the more ready to take the next step forward to forge a better life together.

And guess what - more good news - we bought our home on the morning of the ROM! It was quite funny come to think of it. We had viewed about 4 flats and the last one was a ground floor mansionette that I liked. Even my parents loved it. It was roomy (4 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, a big arse balcony plus a garden patch), near the PRis MRT, and has an unobscured view of the canal and park. L went to see it and felt right about it too. We made an offer and the buyer counter-offered at a reasonable price which we agreed. So it was quite a breeze! Now we just have to plan for our Bintan beach wedding in December and right after that, home renovations and moving in.

To celebrate our ROM, we packed our bags for a short honeymoon in Bali. This was L's first time and we splurged on a pool villa at b-villa in the Seminyak area which is close to all the action - that is if we ever want to venture out of our sanctuary. Lol. It was relaxing to say the least - and the best part is we are able to spend lots of time together. We rode our rented motorbike everywhere (def cheaper at only $5 / day and great way to see everything), yes even all the way to Ubud which is about an hour away (arse very pain lor!). Luckily my lovely husband (haha) is a very good driver and great with directions.

We passed by Celuk - a familiar sight with its neat rows of gold and silversmiths - and then I thought we had reached Ubud Arts Market but actually it was Sukawati Market which is similar and not so touristy at 11am+. There are many shops selling Balinese ceremonial umbrellas and religious decorative artefacts.

Sukawati Market

Inside the buildings were a sprawling labryinth of stalls selling heaps of souvenirs, linen shirts, sarongs, batik dresses, sandals, woven bags, jewellery, wood carvings, artwork, wind chimes etc. Here you really have to bargain hard as the vendors usually start with a much higher price for e.g I wanted to buy a batik shirt for my dad and the guy offered me $40. I sniggered saying it's so expensive (it is) and he said 'give me a good price'. I said $20. He said 'Miss, give me more'. I stuck to $20 with a sour puss face and he said ok without hesitation! (Later a local tailor said she could buy the same shirt for $10 - grrr!)...

Dirty Duck

Another vendor also offered a ridiculous price for the rattan table mats that L wanted to buy for his ristorante. I made a face and cut it by 60%. She said 'madam, please give me more. You first customer' (the guy also said this earlier). I told L to walk away. She asked us to wait and then readily agreed! So a tip is to bargain by 50% to 70% becos their mark-up is crazy. But of course if you feel the price is reasonable, then pay them with a smile.

At Ubud, we tried to look for Nuri's ribs but couldn't so we opted for crispy duck and fried chicken (so-so only) at Dirty Duck which had not changed much, except they are building an extra pavilion at the paddy fields. The ambience is really the best part here as we could lay down on the mat and shoot the breeze. Comatosed post lunch, we located the Ubud market and surrounding alleyways of shops. It was quite touristy and many shops and cafes have sprung up. Touts were also pressing us to buy tickets for a traditional dance performance tonight. On our way out of Ubud, we stopped for caffe at Spaccanapoli, a tiny pizzeria outpost where we spoke with the Italian owner about how Bali has changed.

 

And just as we rode along Gianyar at the fringe of Ubud, L stopped at Wisnu Rotan shop to inquire about the price of their rattan chairs and tables. We followed the lady boss to the back of the shop and saw their workshop where her husband and workers churned out all kinds of rattan products from gorgeous high back chairs to rocking chairs for the mainly overseas market (from $50 for a chair and about $100 for a table).

Back in time before it ws dark, we went for cocktails at the beautiful Ku De Ta instead of Potato Head, and then had quite an excellent dinner at the nearby SASA Italian restorante (again L couldn't resist chatting up the Italian owners). L also tailored 6 linen shirts at a random tailor shop which came out lovely and a steal at $30 each. We also saw a few furniture shops while entertaining the thought of returning to Bali to shop for our home in March! Alas, four days were over before we knew it. L loved Bali so much that he wanted to move there. Oh well , we'll see if it manifests. If it's meant to be, it'll happen :)

Avventura di Burma

Since last year I've been fascinated by Burma (also known as Myanmar). It was constantly in the news, thanks to the recent liberation of The Lady ASSK. It was Lonely Planet's top 10 countries to visit in 2012. And I had been mistaken 3 times for a Burmese here. So I decided to heed this calling to the country and for my 37th birthday, I booked us on Jet Star to Yangon the capital and also signed up for a guided itinerary in Bagan, Mandalay and Lake Inle with a recommended local agency. We didn't know what to expect; L was a bit apprehensive 'is it safe?' I assured him we'd be fine.

The skies were dark and it was going to drizzle when we touched down. July was the start of the rainy season but luckily for us, it didn’t rain the whole week we were touring the rest of Myanmar, except for Yangon. At the airport we were greeted by a fascinating sight of locals wearing the traditional longyis and bearing the perennial thanaka tree bark cream. From a mob of taxi drivers, we picked one who took us to East Hotel at a flat fee of US$10. East was affordable ($90 on Agoda), clean, modern and best of all, a stone's throw away from Sule Pagoda in the heart of the gloomy city. I read there's a lack of rooms to cater to the surge in travellers so it's crucial to book the hotels in advance.

I was itching to explore Yangon but L was exhausted from staying up last night to watch Napoli's match (they lost anyway boo) so we had a nap while it rained outside. I was starving and bugged him to wake up. We went next door to Aroma Cafe for an espresso before combing the nearby area for a spot of local noodles. But the streetside stalls didn't look very hygenic even though some of the snacks like the Indian samosas, roti prata, prawn crackers and coconut pancakes looked enticing. We didn't want to take our chances, not with the pork offal hotpot anyway (looked like our kway chup).

You can't miss the crazy-busy Maha Bandoola Road that was lined with goldsmith shops on the right side (if you're facing Sule Pagoda). Every inch of the sidewalk was dominated by a street vendor selling all kinds of useless and useful things. I was quite amused by the makeshift public phone operators and the ubiquitous betel tobacco sellers - usually crowded by male patrons. Then there were the troops of young novice nuns clad in striking pink robes and monks with alm bowls who waived through the scenes seamlessly from shop to shop. It was also a sensory overload to say the least, although I must say there was a certain level of order amidst the chaos. Everyone knew their place and where they were going - except us of course.

We crossed the overhead bridge on Maha Bandoola Rd and chanced upon the Thein Gyi Zay market where more vendors sold all kinds of fruits in season. On display and paraded like gems are neat piles of grapes, yellow ripe mangoes, pineapples, mangosteens, rambutans and apples. The wonderful kaleidoscope of faces and races reminded us that Burma is indeed a fascinating country sandwiched between Bangladesh, China, Thailand and Laos. L loved it as it reminded him of Napoli.

We politely fended off men who offered services from a taxi to a change of money and were near starving before we spotted King Tea House (at 126 Sule Pagoda Road), just a 100m away from East Hotel. It looked decent and was crowded with locals - a good sign. We propped our arses on the tiny low chairs and wolfed down 2 bowls of rice vermicelli with minced pork in fermented bean sauce (akin to Chinese zha jiang mian), a big steamed pork bao which L piled on spoonfuls of oily chilli, and drank the sweet milk tea and fresh orange juice. All for only 3,000 kyat (US$3.50). 

Back at the hotel, I arranged to meet the local agency Shalom to pay them for the flight tickets, hotel vouchers and guides in US dollars, and nearly tore my hair out. The 2 girls were very particular about the condition of my US dollars and only accepted the new edition notes in a pristine state - i.e no creases, no marks, no stains, no tears or scribbles (apparently anything less than perfect will be rejected by the banks and business operators). They rejected about 75% of my money and I was so exasperated I told them I don't have any more dollars #F*$%! Finally they made a call to their office and took the best of my notes grudgingly. So a lesson learnt - please ask your money changer at home to give you the perfect new US dollars and do bring extra money as there are hardly any ATMs and credit cards are not common except at high-end hotels and shops. More of Burma to come... stay tuned!

Taiwan Ni Hao!

Lonely Planet has a list of must-visit top 10 countries for 2012 and they include Taiwan and Myanmar. With that, I don't need any excuse to booked my tickets for both countries for April and July respectively. I'm always intrigued by both, especially the latter which is now slowly opening its doors to the outside world and with Aun San SK the peace goddess leading the peace march.

Taiwan is also a curiosity for me and thus it's a lovely treat for me and my mom to celebrate her birthday. We did get a shock 1 week before we left when my dad suffered a stroke and we had to rush him to the hospital. It was a stressful period for us and I'm surprised that to see my sister and brother (who have moved out) cried when they heard the news (you have to understand that he is a traditional dad who doesn't hug us or say he loves us).

But I think it's a blessing in disguise as it brought us closer and also created the opportunity for my dad to rest and relax (no stress about his construction project and horrid vampire boss) and enjoy the compassion and love from everyone (and stops being a painful stubborn cow ;)

He is especially close to the two cats - Lola and Mimi - who spend most of the time with him watching TV and napping together on the couch. Animals are such great therapy indeed.

After working out a detailed roster for his care, mom and I flew to Taipei on SIA (best flight ever) and my third aunt and her sister joined us the next day. Taipei was pouring cats and dogs when we got to the city centre by bus from the airport but luckily we met a kind cab driver who joked and happily brought us to MAI hotel nearby.

The locals are really friendly and helpful, from the hotel staff to the taxi drivers (some with a great sense of humour), and are great ambassadors of Taiwan. I really enjoyed speaking Mandarin in Taiwan too (I have a A in Chinese ok!).

We met le mie amiche Margherita and Paola (we studied Italian together in Perugia) who played guides for the most of Saturday. We enjoyed lunch at Taipei 101's massive food court where you can also find Din Tai Fung and shopped around the city centre.

On day 2, we visited cultural sights like Chiang Kai Sek memorial hall followed by an exploration of the retail jungle of Wufenpu wholesale market. There are thousands of shops and booths here selling all kinds of fashion ware and accessories in all trends. I have to say there was a lot of junk but also treasures to sieve out. It could take days to go through everything - that's why shopaholics will have a field day here. I managed to buy a polka dot top and scallop shorts, plus a really cute strapless floral pantsuit.

On day 3, we took the metro (30mins) and then a cab (15mins) to the beautiful hot spring town of Wulai outside of Taipei. There are in fact many hot spring towns such as Beitou but I chose Wulai which felt like a clone of Hakone in Japan. Not suprisingly, the Japanese colonised the country before and thus there is a strong Japanese influence here. We splurged on a night's stay ($280) at the 5-star Pause Landis resort for a great nudist spa experience. Mom was giggling non-stop as we watched naked women walking around in the sauna and the indoor pool. We could soak in the hot spring pool for hours as it was so relaxing with the water beating down on your back... ahhhh. 

Before that, we had walked 15mins to the Old Street in Wulai and enjoyed a great lunch of local declicacies like wild boar dumplings, bamboo rice, and crispy fried river shrimps. I especially liked the white bittergourd-pineapple-pork rib soup and the array of mountain veggies including the bird's nest ferns (I didn't know it could taste so crunchy and smooth).

There are many eateries to choose from and you can also pick on street snacks such as roasted sweet potatoes, bbq wild boar skewers and the perfumed pink guavas. A shop sold these amazing cubes of herbal jelly that's made from seaweed which we lugged back 2 jars (should have bought more!)

Thereafter we burnt off the calories by walking to the hillside and hopped onto a rickety old trenino to see the waterfall. On the scenic way back on foot, we came across a lovey-dovey pair of cats that posed for me above an aboriginal signpost. It was drizzling and made us more sleepy so we headed back for a nap. By now we have gotten used to the sleep-eat-sleep routine.

The next day, we then took a train from Taipei to Hualien (3 hours) and the owner of our minsu (homestay) Rachel picked us up from the train station as promised. According to a friendly cab driver, apparently there are thousands of minsu at Hualien (some not legally registered) and that was why I had booked the Sunrise Hostel to experience the local hospitality.

We also booked a Taroko Gorgeo national park tour and it was definitely worth the time. The marbled ravines were breathtaking and visitors must be ready to hike up some of the demanding trails to see the more scenic areas deep in the lush forests. A tip: try to go early in the day to avoid the sun and the mad stream of tour buses carrying hordes of Chinese tourists.

We then returned to Taipei and had more slices of night markets and shopping at Ximending. After a while, the markets like Shilin all offered around the same street food.

The Zhi Qiang night market at Hualien had the most interesting variety like oyster soup, bbq meats, deepfrid 'coffin' french toasts stuffed with all kinds of fillings. We had a good relaxing trip and I'm most pleased that I got to speak Mandarin everyday with the locals. Chinese is such a beautiful eloquent language and more of us should hold on to this heritage. Come to think of it, Singaporeans have the luxury of being tri-lingual (Eng, Chinese, dialect) - we should encourage our kids to not forsake our mother tongues.

Anyway look out for my next post on Myanmar - an enchanting land of pagodas and temples ~  a presto! With love and blessings :)

Scar Trek in JB

Over the Easter weekend, I went on my a trekking escapade at Endau Pompin National Park in Johor by invitation of my guru G. I've gone on forest treks before in Thailand and NZ but not like this where we roughed it out in a tropical forest. This is the second designated National Park in Peninsular Malaysia and contains one of the world's oldest rainforests. I read that the volcanic rocks there date back 240 million years. I was prepared for the worst, including sleeping in basic wooded huts and leeches. Yes, LEECHES. I thought he was joking until I googled the park and Wikitravel affirms it: "Leech socks are advisable" *Eeekss* I hate mosquitoes as they love me, but in this case, I'd gladly swap the leeches for them.

Anyway I was trying not to think of them but they crept into my mind (pun) on the way from Woodlands train check point to Kluang. The train was nothing like those I love in Europe and the first class cabin was worn out and looked like no one cleaned it for years. I can't imagine what the ordinary class looks like. Grace and I travelled up with a bunch of American teachers and spouses, and guru G met us at a sleepy town, Bekok. We got into the 4W drives on a bumpy road winding through miles of oil palm plantations and lush forests till we reached the park at 5pm+. The wooden huts exceeded my very low expectations and there were even rubber mattresses so that was a good start. Before we even settled down to dinner by the river stream, I already saw 2 leech marks on G and another guy! I think you can call me the leech spotter. I stuck to my running shoes and sprayed them with repellent. Kiasu, kiasi. I don't care.

The food was also very good, prepared by a kindly Malay lady and her family - as we tucked into spiced chicken, forest veggies and rice. The group even brought 2 crates of beer, bottles of wines and candles. I was having second thoughts about the trek tomorrow cos of the leeches but G was adamant that I go. It's good training, he said. For what?!? For war? Anyway I asked the heavens to decide - if it rains, I wouldn't go. The skies held up all night and I couldn't chicken out in the morning. After a hearty brekkie, we prepared our gear, including these long cotton beige leech socks that run up to below the knees. They look like giant versions of coffee socks at our local kopitiams. Anyway I took extra precaution by wearing another pair of socks inside, and tucked my long-sleeved top into my long pants into the leech socks and into the shoes. I ain't no taking any prisoners. The rest in our group of 13 wore shorts and swimming costumes (and they all kanna bitten).  

G wanted us to take a longer route but the guide suggested a shorter one which I'm totally happy with. We set off at 9.45am and came back at 3.30pm (about 5 hours)! Imagine this was the 'shorter' trek :O Needless to say, we ate like kings and slept like pigs. The next day, I was quite happy to pack my bags and leave the campsite after sending out a silent blessing to the forest and its inhabitants. May the park be protected and stay pristine and beautiful.

Casa Sweet Casa

Omg, I can't believe it's the end of February. Where did the time go? 2012 started on a mad rush with Chinese New Year after Xmas and NYE. Our week getaway in Koh Samui was now a distance memory, albeit a good memory with Gino and Ema as we scooted around the isle and worked on our tan and beauty sleep. Koh Samui hasn't changed much except Chaweng was quite madcap and it's best to avoid staying there if you don't like crowds and loud techno-parties on the beach! But having said that, it has a fabulous stretch of beach for people-watching and swimming. (See the contrasting photos of Chaweng at day and night here.)

We also met up with B, the Thai wife of L's second cousin who lives there and it was sad to find out about their pending divorce. She's a sweet lady and L felt sorry for her and offered her a job at his italian ristorante and she accepted it! G and E stayed on to enjoy the rest of their honeymoon and then back to Italia after their month-long honeymoon. I'd love to take off for a month too when we eventually tie the knot. Eventually lol.

Meanwhile I'm enjoying my time travelling and churning out travel stories based on the Chiangmai and Koh Samui trips for Appetite magazine - and soon Taiwan and Burma! It's always so rewarding to see my words and photos in print *beaming with pride*. I think if I don't have my current job or retire early, I'd be a travel blogger so I can see and experience the world! (See below my story based on the last trip in Chiangmai.)

During CNY, we had welcomed Enzo, L's other cousin who came and left besotted with Spore and a particular Chinese girl. I ate my fair share of yusheng and fortune pot, harbouring hopes for abundance so we can finally buy our dream home this year (please please let the prices drop). If you haven't heard, my 2 siblings have moved out last year into their gorgeous homes while moi madamoiselle is still at home with the folks, 2 cats and L. I missed Jarvis so much as he has moved to my sis but he seems really happy to be there and has even put on weight. Thus I had the libery to adopt Lola aka Snowy from Blessings Home cattery. She's such a sweetie - very affectionate, loving lap cat! Hopefully Mimi will get along with her and not be jealous.

Now there's more space and no more fighting over the bathroom, tv, last bottle of juice, etc. Admittedly I'm also envious and wish for my own place. At the moment, I'm caught in a dilemma. As a single, I can't buy a bigger flat which we want so I might look at the private property since L is not ready yet to walk down the aisle. But private digs are so expensive and I'm not sure if I should finance it entirely. But I can't push L to marry me. He has to do it for the right reasons at his own time. However the clock's ticking and before we know it, my eggs will be 38 years old next year! Harrumph.

We haven't spent a lot of time together since he's always so busy at work and only has Tuesdays off, thus I had taken Valentine's Day off (Tues) to have quality time together. I woke up to prepare sauteed beef with onions, rocket and truffle oil to be eaten with a French loaf, paired with an excellent bottle of sparkling Lambrusco from Parma. Then there is a plum and mint salad as dessert. L gobbled everything up and then promptly fell asleep while the waves crashed, the wind blew and the birds chirped. I love this boy. *Un bacio!*

Call Of Chiangmai

I try to go to Thailand once a year so when my mentor Guru G suggested we go to Chiangmai with him over a long weekend in October, my friend N and I said yes readily. What's more, he would bring us to visit the Elephant Nature Park and Red Karen hilltribe village projects which he has been involved for years. It would be a real privilege for us.

On day one, we made fast friends with Chom, his girlfriend Gig and other equally kind-hearted souls in his close-knitted family in Chiangmai - especially when fuelled by many rounds of Singha beer and Absolut vodka at dinner. Lol. On the second day, we visited the Elephant Nature Park www.elephantnaturepark.org about an hour away by car. Located in a lush valley surrounded by mountains. this reserve was started by a brave young woman Lek who was in Bangkok rescuing the dogs, cats and monkeys from the floods at the time of our visit. What's amazing about this park is that it doesn't make the elephants give rides, paint, kick football or do tricks.

They are just there as majestic elephants in all their glory - to be fed lots of their favourite food and be bathed by the visitors in the river. They also got a volunteers programme for those on a longer stay who can help chop up the fruits and manintain the grounds. Ok I admit I'm guilty of riding an elephant before at Phuket - thinking I could support their cause this way - but boy I was wrong after watching a documentary on how the young elephants are separated from their mothers since young and then chained inside small cages for days or weeks to starve them, break their spirit and make them obey their masters or mahouts ;( So I've learnt to avoid these tourist traps such as elephant rides and please also avoid paying for pictures taken with baby elephants and monkeys on the streets as many of these animals were separated from their mothers to become street beggers.

After a fulfilling buffet lunch, G gave us an insider tour of the camp, his gardens, his little hut by the river and also told us stories of each elephant, including the one who broke his arm. We then fed the elephants copious amount of fruits and witnessed an alpha male on heat who was trumpeting so loudly and tried to 'rape' a female who ran away keke. Oooh I think I can camp here, work on the gardens and breathe the fresh mountain air for a few months :) it's like WWOOFing!

The next day, G's friend Malibu picked us up from the T-Room guestroom (cheap/ $20, clean and very central www.t-roomguesthouse.com ) where we stayed and drove his jeepster truck for a good 4 hours+ to Chiangdao nature reserve to visit the Red Karen hilltribe village. The scenery was breathtaking and it got cooler as we whizzed by green bamboo groves and climbed the hills. Chom got out, showed us his martial arts skill, and chopped down a few bamboo tubes to cook rice tonight.

Upon arrival at the village, Chom's family was so warm and welcoming. They treated us like VIPs and let me and N sleep on the mattresses in their almost completed house that was built recently. We looked on curiously as they went about preparing a hearty feast of roast chicken (ingeniously cooked within a cooking oil tin can inside a hole in the ground!), plus stir-fried local vegs, grilled green eggplant, veg curry and a plateful of fried bamboo worms that's their protein source and delicacy. Yup it was gross to look at and something I'm not dying to eat. Aside from the salt and pepper seasoning, it just tasted rubbery and popped / pooed in the mouth. Eeuuk.

We brought out the few huge china bags of secondhand clothings and stationery for the villagers, and it was such a humble experience to see them come try on the clothes and walk away happily with the stuff. The kids were the cutest and were treated to marshmallows melted over a fire and sky lanterns which we released along with our hopes and blessings.

After dinner, we showered as quickly as we could, scooping cold water in the candlelight. It was quite chilly and we couldn't sleep well although we probably had the best room in town. At 4am+, the cock started to crow and prep us for dawn. Admittedly we couldn't imagine living there without our usual comforts or volunteering for 1 week under such conditions (he said in December, it gets colder so this was nothing). Respect to G and his volunteers who raise money to build water treatment tanks for the villagers otherwise they'd have to walk 2 hours to get fresh water. He also taught them to grow fruit trees and vegs to feed the family. It was great to see the direct lasting impact one can have on the lives of others. N and I are so inspired that we want to start a "Book A Tree" project on our return trip.

After a hearty breakfast of porridge, fried catfish, French toast and jungle tea, we walked around the village to see the other houses, gardens, schools and then packed our bags for the long ride back to Chiangmai. Boy, were we so glad and grateful to be back at the T-Room, which suddenly became 'luxurious' compared to the village!

On the last day, we were all the more elated to check into The Chedi boutique hotel which sponsored a night's stay for a review and travel story I'd be writing for Appetite magazine. Grazie dio! Lunch was lovely indeed at the restaurant that's located in the colonial wing, although their khao soi curry noodle cost 350 baht when the street version was only 30 baht and tasted more authentic. Probably best if we tabao back and eat haha. We could have slept for a week in our deluxe room and just survived on Singha beer while relaxing at our chillout balcony that overlooked the serene courtyard.

Coincidentally the last night was Halloween so after a great bbq dinner with the gang at The Thai Restaurant near T-Room, we went to the Lost Hut pub next door for drinks. Before that, we had a leisure tour of the Sunday Walking Market - a definite highlight of Chiangmai. There's so much to buy and most stuff is so cheap that you don't need to bargain. It rained a fair bit but luckily we had just enough time to shop for what we want. Alas it was time to leave but it has been a rewarding and fun trip. I couldn't wait to return.

Hot Italian summer wedding

Wow, I just realised I haven't uploaded my blog since May. It's been a whirlwind of events since then. We've been to Italia and back, COTW exhibition is over and a great success may I add, and I've turned a year older and wiser in July - having spent a wonderful birthday in my motherland. I've also finally sorted out my nagging 'problem' by going for the minor surgery (resting at home so I have some time on my hand). Don't worry, all is well and I feel enlivened and renewed.

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves in Italia, having been away for more than 2 years. It's great to breathe the air, parla la lingua (I still remember!), mangia tutto, and see everyone again. Getting spoilt by la famiglia is wonderful and the only thoughts that bugged me daily were what to eat today?? :) Raf bought fresh cornetto pastries, proscuitto, cheeses and vino while Melina cooked her fabulous pastas and seafood treats. Naturally I piled on 4kg while L dared not admit his total weight gain.

In between homecooked meals at home and at Linda's, I also checked out a few pizzerie, trattorie and a cheese producer  for a food story in Appetite (Sept issue) - with the help of kind family members and friends. It was worth every calorie. The pizza was especially good at the legendary Da Michele and Sorbillo - not to mention the sinful FRIED pizza at D'e' Figliole. We also made repeat trips to Naples centrale to wine and dine at the elegant yet relaxed seafood ristorante Mimi alla Ferrovia and braved the dodgy backlanes of the Spanish Quarters to locate the brash and crazy Trattoria Nennella for some good ole cucina casa linga.

L's cousin also arranged for me to visit a local artisanal cheese producer - Caseificio di Costanzo - to talk to the owner and see how their cheeses are made at the production line. Naturalmente we also bought tons of the various cheeses (fresh, smoked, wrapped, baked) to enjoy at home. Their prized mozzarella is still made by hand everyday and the quality clearly shows. It is dreamily milky, creamy and lush. I heard L's parents have been back a few times since then so that's a good endorsement. (For more info on the authentic eats in Naples, see my list of recommendations at the end of this blog.)

The main event of our summer trip was of course L's sister's matrimonio and she looks so radiant and in love with M who is American filippino (which means I'm not the only Asian in the famiglia now ha). They make such a cute couple and we truly wish them happiness and joy. The intimate wedding was held at the top of the solfatara hill at an elegant hotel Gli Dei and everyone was overjoyed and also couldn't stop asking us when is our turn.

My cousin Al and his gf were also fortunate to end their Italian summer vacation at Pozzuoli where they got a taste of such warm hospitality and big love from La Famiglia. After the wedding, Raf bought us tickets for a daytrip to the bella isola di Capri where we worked on our tan at the marina and also saw the magical grotta azzura (see photos). We tried to swap our ferry tickets for a refund so that we can rent a private boat around the isle (not bad at 120euros) but alas, it was not to be. The grotta was lovely with its azzuro sparkling waters and the boatman even obliged us by singing "O' Ole Mio" which echoed through the cave. But I wasn't impressed that he kept asking for tips.

We took the funicular up to the top of the hill for a wide vista of Capri and strolled along the cobbled streets. There are elegant shops, cafes and hotels - with expensive price tags. Luckily our lunch was free at a pre-booked  ristorante where we sat under a limone tree heavy with palm-sized fruits and munched on pasta, fried calamari and birra. Capri is indeed the glamourous cousin of Ischia and Procida but it's too high maintenance for common people like moi. Gimme Procida the cutie anytime!

While Luigi was contented to just chill in his bedroom all day and lap up his mama's love, I had an itchy backside and need to max out my time in Italia. So I needed no excuse to head out to the malls, see the rest of Naples bay and also saw the gladiatore amfiteatro-museo at Capua with Linda and Mel (also a Spartacus fan). It was good fun hamming it up and fantasize what it's like for Spartacus and his army of renagades. *roar*

Our dear amico Michele also flew down from Munich to join us for a week and he got along famously with everyone, especially L's folks. We made a daytrip to the isle of Procida to visit zio Adolfo and his family who always rents a villa there every summer and had a simple homecooked lunch with lots of wine followed by a walk around the island. I always have great memories of our first trip to Procida and shooting all the wonderful cats there. We even spoke to the fisherman who was with Carolina the cat at the fish shop (in the photo which I exhibited at COTW) but he told us she is gone. Poor gal. She is replaced by another chubby tabby.

A few days later, we drove south to the beautiful coast of Calabria and Basilicata with Mic, L's cousin Gino and fiancee Ema. As it was still July, we had the beaches to ourselves most of the time as we baked by the pebbled bay for 2 days. The beach towns of Belvedere and Diamante were such gems and came alive at night as everyone showed off their tans and paced the portsdown promenade. The summery vibes and glorious sunsets reminded me of Ibiza. Bellissima. I wish we could afford a nice summer villa here in future.

Four kgs heavier after the trip, I wrote a story for Appetite magazine (Sept 2011 issue) on authentic restaurants, pizzerie and shops at Napoli - big thanks to all my kind and patient Italian guides (Valerio, Salvatore, Luigi, Gino e Ema). Do visit these places when you are in Naples as they are truly local:

*Armando Scaturchio
A local chain of pastry shop/cafes for shiny cases of pastries, baba' rum cakes and caffe. Via Porta Medina Alla Pignasecca, 24 (various branches in city centre).

*Attanasio
A famous lil pastry shop located off a small lane at Piazza Garibaldi. Go there in the morning for oven-hot sfogliatelle and arragoste pastries stuffed with sweet ricotta or cioccolata. Vico Ferrovia, 2.

*Gay Odin

A chain of artisanal chocolate shop; try the foresta milk bars, bon bon and caffe-laced confetti. Via Toledo, 427 (various branches). http://www.gay-odin.it/

*La Sfogiatella Mary
You can't miss this small kiosk counter that's gleaming with all kinds of pastries, cookies and cakes. Along the busy shopping street of Via Toledo, 66 (entrance of Galleria Umberto).


*Gran Caffe Gambrinus
Near Galleria Umberto, you'll find this most famous and expensive cafe in town. Come here to see and be seen among the Prada-clad crowds. Via Chiaia, 1-2. http://www.caffegambrinus.com/

*D’e’ Figliole
Best fried pizza in town at this hole-in-the-wall which is near Da Michele. The stuffed pizza dough is freshly fried a la minute and tastes like our Chinese hum chee pang. Via Giudecca Vecchia, 39.

*Da Michele
For the best traditional neapolitano pizza, head to this legendary pizzeria where they only serve 2 types of pizza from 4euros. Order of the day is Margherita doppia mozzarella. Be prepared to queue an hour during dinnertime while lunch is less hectic. Julia Roberts shot 'Eat, Pray, Love' here. Via Cesare Sersale, 1. http://www.damichele.net/

*Di Matteo
There are 3 noteworthy pizzerie along Via dei Tribunali and this is one of them for cheap frittata and pizza. Unit 94. http://www.pizzeriadimatteo.it/

*Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente
You can't miss the vibrant facade of this popular pizzeria. Also good for fried fried things on the go and pizza judging from the delivery orders. Via dei Tribunali, 120/121. http://www.ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it/

*Sorbillo

There are 2 Sorbillo along Via dei Tribunali so be sure to track down unit 32 for the real deal. There is often a long queue at this hotspot where the pizza choices are astounding. www.accademiadellapizza.it

*La Vera Granita

Everyone flocks to this busy roadside kiosk-shop for the fresh fruity granita which comes in seasonal flavours. Open till late, at the intersection of Corso Garibaldi and Via Casanova (near Porta Capuana).

*Mimi alla Ferrovia

Also near Piazza Garibaldi is this elegant yet intimate seafood ristorante. Prices are affordable and the seafood swimmingly fresh. Service is old-school European. Via Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. http://www.mimiallaferrovia.it/

*Trattoria Nennella

We braved the dodgy Spanish Quarters' backlanes to locate this thriving non-pretentious eatery. The service is brash, fun and loud and the food is true-blue neapolitana cucina and damn cheap at 15 euros for the set menu. A must-eat is the pasta al patata. Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 105 (turn into a small lane off Via Toledo).

*Mini Caseificio Costanzo

We made a trip to their flagship store in Aversa and even toured the production line to see how the cheese are made by hand. This artisanal cheese producer has a shop in Naples near the stadium. Worth a trip to taste their fine mozzarella and divine ricotta-pear tart. Via Lepanto, 118/120. http://www.mozzarellacostanzo.com/