Hot Italian summer wedding

Wow, I just realised I haven't uploaded my blog since May. It's been a whirlwind of events since then. We've been to Italia and back, COTW exhibition is over and a great success may I add, and I've turned a year older and wiser in July - having spent a wonderful birthday in my motherland. I've also finally sorted out my nagging 'problem' by going for the minor surgery (resting at home so I have some time on my hand). Don't worry, all is well and I feel enlivened and renewed.

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves in Italia, having been away for more than 2 years. It's great to breathe the air, parla la lingua (I still remember!), mangia tutto, and see everyone again. Getting spoilt by la famiglia is wonderful and the only thoughts that bugged me daily were what to eat today?? :) Raf bought fresh cornetto pastries, proscuitto, cheeses and vino while Melina cooked her fabulous pastas and seafood treats. Naturally I piled on 4kg while L dared not admit his total weight gain.

In between homecooked meals at home and at Linda's, I also checked out a few pizzerie, trattorie and a cheese producer  for a food story in Appetite (Sept issue) - with the help of kind family members and friends. It was worth every calorie. The pizza was especially good at the legendary Da Michele and Sorbillo - not to mention the sinful FRIED pizza at D'e' Figliole. We also made repeat trips to Naples centrale to wine and dine at the elegant yet relaxed seafood ristorante Mimi alla Ferrovia and braved the dodgy backlanes of the Spanish Quarters to locate the brash and crazy Trattoria Nennella for some good ole cucina casa linga.

L's cousin also arranged for me to visit a local artisanal cheese producer - Caseificio di Costanzo - to talk to the owner and see how their cheeses are made at the production line. Naturalmente we also bought tons of the various cheeses (fresh, smoked, wrapped, baked) to enjoy at home. Their prized mozzarella is still made by hand everyday and the quality clearly shows. It is dreamily milky, creamy and lush. I heard L's parents have been back a few times since then so that's a good endorsement. (For more info on the authentic eats in Naples, see my list of recommendations at the end of this blog.)

The main event of our summer trip was of course L's sister's matrimonio and she looks so radiant and in love with M who is American filippino (which means I'm not the only Asian in the famiglia now ha). They make such a cute couple and we truly wish them happiness and joy. The intimate wedding was held at the top of the solfatara hill at an elegant hotel Gli Dei and everyone was overjoyed and also couldn't stop asking us when is our turn.

My cousin Al and his gf were also fortunate to end their Italian summer vacation at Pozzuoli where they got a taste of such warm hospitality and big love from La Famiglia. After the wedding, Raf bought us tickets for a daytrip to the bella isola di Capri where we worked on our tan at the marina and also saw the magical grotta azzura (see photos). We tried to swap our ferry tickets for a refund so that we can rent a private boat around the isle (not bad at 120euros) but alas, it was not to be. The grotta was lovely with its azzuro sparkling waters and the boatman even obliged us by singing "O' Ole Mio" which echoed through the cave. But I wasn't impressed that he kept asking for tips.

We took the funicular up to the top of the hill for a wide vista of Capri and strolled along the cobbled streets. There are elegant shops, cafes and hotels - with expensive price tags. Luckily our lunch was free at a pre-booked  ristorante where we sat under a limone tree heavy with palm-sized fruits and munched on pasta, fried calamari and birra. Capri is indeed the glamourous cousin of Ischia and Procida but it's too high maintenance for common people like moi. Gimme Procida the cutie anytime!

While Luigi was contented to just chill in his bedroom all day and lap up his mama's love, I had an itchy backside and need to max out my time in Italia. So I needed no excuse to head out to the malls, see the rest of Naples bay and also saw the gladiatore amfiteatro-museo at Capua with Linda and Mel (also a Spartacus fan). It was good fun hamming it up and fantasize what it's like for Spartacus and his army of renagades. *roar*

Our dear amico Michele also flew down from Munich to join us for a week and he got along famously with everyone, especially L's folks. We made a daytrip to the isle of Procida to visit zio Adolfo and his family who always rents a villa there every summer and had a simple homecooked lunch with lots of wine followed by a walk around the island. I always have great memories of our first trip to Procida and shooting all the wonderful cats there. We even spoke to the fisherman who was with Carolina the cat at the fish shop (in the photo which I exhibited at COTW) but he told us she is gone. Poor gal. She is replaced by another chubby tabby.

A few days later, we drove south to the beautiful coast of Calabria and Basilicata with Mic, L's cousin Gino and fiancee Ema. As it was still July, we had the beaches to ourselves most of the time as we baked by the pebbled bay for 2 days. The beach towns of Belvedere and Diamante were such gems and came alive at night as everyone showed off their tans and paced the portsdown promenade. The summery vibes and glorious sunsets reminded me of Ibiza. Bellissima. I wish we could afford a nice summer villa here in future.

Four kgs heavier after the trip, I wrote a story for Appetite magazine (Sept 2011 issue) on authentic restaurants, pizzerie and shops at Napoli - big thanks to all my kind and patient Italian guides (Valerio, Salvatore, Luigi, Gino e Ema). Do visit these places when you are in Naples as they are truly local:

*Armando Scaturchio
A local chain of pastry shop/cafes for shiny cases of pastries, baba' rum cakes and caffe. Via Porta Medina Alla Pignasecca, 24 (various branches in city centre).

*Attanasio
A famous lil pastry shop located off a small lane at Piazza Garibaldi. Go there in the morning for oven-hot sfogliatelle and arragoste pastries stuffed with sweet ricotta or cioccolata. Vico Ferrovia, 2.

*Gay Odin

A chain of artisanal chocolate shop; try the foresta milk bars, bon bon and caffe-laced confetti. Via Toledo, 427 (various branches). http://www.gay-odin.it/

*La Sfogiatella Mary
You can't miss this small kiosk counter that's gleaming with all kinds of pastries, cookies and cakes. Along the busy shopping street of Via Toledo, 66 (entrance of Galleria Umberto).


*Gran Caffe Gambrinus
Near Galleria Umberto, you'll find this most famous and expensive cafe in town. Come here to see and be seen among the Prada-clad crowds. Via Chiaia, 1-2. http://www.caffegambrinus.com/

*D’e’ Figliole
Best fried pizza in town at this hole-in-the-wall which is near Da Michele. The stuffed pizza dough is freshly fried a la minute and tastes like our Chinese hum chee pang. Via Giudecca Vecchia, 39.

*Da Michele
For the best traditional neapolitano pizza, head to this legendary pizzeria where they only serve 2 types of pizza from 4euros. Order of the day is Margherita doppia mozzarella. Be prepared to queue an hour during dinnertime while lunch is less hectic. Julia Roberts shot 'Eat, Pray, Love' here. Via Cesare Sersale, 1. http://www.damichele.net/

*Di Matteo
There are 3 noteworthy pizzerie along Via dei Tribunali and this is one of them for cheap frittata and pizza. Unit 94. http://www.pizzeriadimatteo.it/

*Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente
You can't miss the vibrant facade of this popular pizzeria. Also good for fried fried things on the go and pizza judging from the delivery orders. Via dei Tribunali, 120/121. http://www.ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it/

*Sorbillo

There are 2 Sorbillo along Via dei Tribunali so be sure to track down unit 32 for the real deal. There is often a long queue at this hotspot where the pizza choices are astounding. www.accademiadellapizza.it

*La Vera Granita

Everyone flocks to this busy roadside kiosk-shop for the fresh fruity granita which comes in seasonal flavours. Open till late, at the intersection of Corso Garibaldi and Via Casanova (near Porta Capuana).

*Mimi alla Ferrovia

Also near Piazza Garibaldi is this elegant yet intimate seafood ristorante. Prices are affordable and the seafood swimmingly fresh. Service is old-school European. Via Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. http://www.mimiallaferrovia.it/

*Trattoria Nennella

We braved the dodgy Spanish Quarters' backlanes to locate this thriving non-pretentious eatery. The service is brash, fun and loud and the food is true-blue neapolitana cucina and damn cheap at 15 euros for the set menu. A must-eat is the pasta al patata. Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 105 (turn into a small lane off Via Toledo).

*Mini Caseificio Costanzo

We made a trip to their flagship store in Aversa and even toured the production line to see how the cheese are made by hand. This artisanal cheese producer has a shop in Naples near the stadium. Worth a trip to taste their fine mozzarella and divine ricotta-pear tart. Via Lepanto, 118/120. http://www.mozzarellacostanzo.com/