Palermo port of call

La vista di Palermo dal nostro B&B

After 3 full days of feasting, we left for Palermo in my beloved Sicilia - finally some peace and privacy. Initially L bought the overnight bunks for 28 Dec which would leave us just 3 days there. I sulked in the car, and he sighed and ran back to the stazione to exchange it for the earlier day trip on 27 Dec. Despite being frustrated, he said something that touched me: 'You're never happy, but I'm never happy without you.' Awww, isn't that the sweetest thing? I was so excited with the prospect of being back in Sicily that I could barely contain myself throughout the 8-hour train ride. We passed by the familiar stark seaside landscape of Calabria, passing by Paola where the late afternoon sun sparkled over the blue waters. We played the card game of 'chor dai dee' (I kept winning) and he surrended to sleep when the treno rolled into the enormous belly of the ship and sailed across the Messina Straits.

It was another 2hrs+ before we got off at Palermo at 6.30pm. The sun set at 4pm+ in winter and the sky turned dark, choking the joy and activity from daytime. Honestly winter was no fun, all grey and sleepy. One can't do much; even going for long walks was a challenge in the face of the sombre chill. This was both our virgin trip in Palermo, and we didn't do any research on it but we went with our gut feeling, strolled down Via Roma and found Hotel Centro easily (70e).

Hungry we went in search of cena and by some stroke of luck, we overheard 2 tourists looking for a local trattoria and backtracked our steps to the cosy Casa del Brodo which was the only eatery buzzing with life around town. To celebrate our arrival in Palermo, we splurged on dinner - first una bottiglia di vino bianco (because the house wine was insipid), poi I had a big bowl of steamed fresh mussels and my favourite spaghetti con sarde (an essential in Sicilia) while L had the comforting tortellini in brodo and fritto misto. I always suffered from food envy and luckily L always lets me order for us and waits patiently while I picks at his food. Hehe.

The next day, we checked out of Hotel Centro and I followed my nagging instinct and knocked on the door of the B&B upstairs. A chirpy Rosella Bianchi greeted us and proceeded on a quick tour of her gorgeous old apartment filled with antiques, art, books and her own range of handsewn cushions and curtains. We were sold when she unveiled the double bedroom with an attached bathroom and balcony that overlooked Palermo's skyline (at only 55e).

She happily outlined a full day of itinerary around the surrounding quarters and we enjoyed getting lost in the colourful Ballaro mercato where morning vendors competed for your attention. Stall-owners were flogging fresh meats, seafood, seasonal veggies, bbq organs, used goods, clothing, etc. We tried to find this trio of churchs but kept going in circles in the Indian muslim quarters where street signs displayed all 3 languages (like in Spore!). We caught a whiff of curry powder and fresh laundry, walking by battered flats next to refurbished ones, rundown churches to majestic monuments.

Palermo is at once grand yet ruined, depressing yet energetic. It's full of contrasts at every corner you turn. In hind sight, we should have stayed longer in Palermo but it was also a great pleasure to be back in bella Taormina. Three years ago, I did promise myself I'd return with mio grande amore :)

Where to Stay:
Centrally located at Via Roma, 72, Hotel Centro is a cosy 3* hotel (70euros/ night in winter) overlooking the busy main street lined with shops and bars.

Bed & Breakfast Rosella Bianchi above Hotel Centro is run by a chirpy Rosella - we love her gorgeous old apartment filled with character (55euros /night in winter). Book in advance as she only has 2 rooms. Tel: 091 617 1098.

What to see:
Palermo has many gorgeous churches, lively piazzas, the Indian muslim quarters and outdoor markets. Must-sees are the Palermo Cathedral, Fontana Pretoria, and the colourful Ballaro food morning market.

Where to eat:
Palermo is known for their seafood, esp swordfish, so knock yourselves out! Casa del Brodo (est since 1890) is a great seafood restaurant and quite easy to find. They have a buffet spread of antipasti which they will charge according to what you pick but I'd suggest sharing a antipasto like the Spaghetti con sardes (sardines) or their signature Tortellini pasta in brodo (meat soup) - followed by the fresh seafood like Frittura mista di pesce (deepfried fish n seafood), Steamed cozze mussels, and Involtini di pesce spada (stuffed swordfish rolls). Address: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 175. Tel. 091-321655 - closed on Sundays in summer. Book in advance. http://www.casadelbrodo.it/

Not far in a small lane is Antica Focacceria San Francesco (Via A. Paternostro 58) opened since 1834. They are known for being anti-mafia and refused to pay bribes (which explained the presence of polizia). Cheap and popular, it serves stuffed Focaccia to the specialty Panino con la milza (a bread roll stuffed with slices of boiled beef spleen and melted cheese) and Panelle (deep-fried chickpea fritters). I liked the Arancini di riso (stuffed fried rice balls) and the glorious Boiled polpo (octopus) with a dose of sale e limone.

Bar RosaNero is a popular self-service pasticceria and bar and they have all kinds of sweets, cakes and pastries. A must try is the Sicilian cannoli. At Piazzetta Porta Reale, 6.

Street vendors also offer all kinds of local specialties such as granita (shaved ice w fruits) and panelle fried chickpea fritters.