Monday, July 21, 2008

Sing the right keys

Tanti auguri a me! My 33rd birthday came and went without much hoo-haa and I didn't feel any different. L said I'm obsessed con i numeri, è vero. I'm always curiosa about someone's age when I first meet them. In ogni caso, sono contenta che io stia qui in mio preferito paese con uno dei miei amici migliori. I got home that day and found a big bunch of roses on the bed, che dolce! We went out to 'Il Padrino' per cena that evening where the chatty chef tried to sell everyone tartufo but we opted for the carne e pesce set menus and una bottiglia di vino bianco. When we got home, he gave me a pair of lovely diamond earrings... ooo. So clever!

On sabato durante the last weekend di Umbria Jazz, I was adamante on going to the concerto di Alicia Keys but was sure we won't get any more tickets. L assured me otherwise as siamo in italia, and true enough, the italians are queueing up for last-minute biglietti at the concerto. We got ours for 40euros each, and settled under the starry stelle with birra in hand. Alicia was rockin' the house il minuto she came on with songs from her recent album 'As I Am' which I've been blasting a casa. The highlight was during the second last encore when she got the crowd singing to the hit 'No One'. I was waving my arms and standing grinning ear-to-ear on the chair.

The next day on domenica, we missed the 11am bus to Gubbio by just 5mins and I nearly sobbed, but L convinced me to catch the one at 2pm and be back on the 6.40pm later; we'd have enough time to see Gubbio he said. At close to noon, there was already a mass of tifosi (fans) outside the Arena which was next to the bus terminal; they were there first in line for the free-standing R.E.M concerto at 9pm (10 ore dopo, siao!). I told L italians can be kiasu too. The bus ride to Gubbio was enjoyable as we ascended the hills and the vista was stupenda.

Like many other medievale towns, Gubbio - located at the foot of Mt Lugino - was fortified by the Romans which left remnants such as a mausoleum and teatro for 6,000pax. We got off at Piazza Q. Martiri and marched up the steep slopes to the top where the imposing Palazzo dei Consoli lorded over Piazza Grande. I love its Gothic architecture, evident from the fan-shaped flight of steps and animal-shaped steel loops that adorned the bricked walls.

From the loggia, we drank in the fine views below before seeking respite from the blazing sole at the Cathedral; è sempre fresco e tranquillo in una chiesa. We tried to climbed on foot to Basilica Sant'Ubaldo at the very top but the path was closed. Every year on 15 maggio, there's a Corsa dei Ceri (candle race) as spectacular as Siena's Palio where 3 ancient bigarse candles (10m high & 200kg heavy) are hoisted to the basilica. We couldn't imagine doin' any heavylifting in this heat, and descended to locate the Porta Romana.

By chance, we came across the funivia which I've read about in the guidebook. All'inizio, I thought it was a cable car but on close inspection, it was a rather fast moving chain of small birdcages, each big enough for 2 standing adults! Fiona would have died on the spot from fear. I was the first to hop in and then L quickly leaped into the cage, before it took off 300m up above the canopy of cipresi trees. We clung to each other for dear life and giggled nonstop, afraid to turn around or make any slightest movement.

Forse a small fart would send it swaying. It clunked and moaned as we sailed closer to the top. We looked down at the ground below and tried not to imagine the worst. The splendid panorama's only drawback was the glaring sunrays which blanketed the plains below. In any caso, the ride down was even more pee-inducing. It's amazing that it operates 365 days a year, even during inverno (winter) when a gigantic xmas tree is lit up across the hills for all to see.

Poi we strolled down Corso Garibaldi to Piazza Q.M nearly an hour early for our bus back to Perugia. At every town and città in Italia, there's bound to be a Corso Garibaldi, Via Repubblica o Via del Duomo, Piazza Umberto o Emmanuele Vittorio; all named after past leaders, emperors, famous writers-poets, saints, monuments ecc. We joined the bigger crowd at the antiques market, and noted the old folks especially the aunties, dressed in their Sunday best, gossiping away at the parco.

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