Perfecto Paradiso

On Sunday, I dragged myself out of bed at 6.30am to meet G at the dock for a day trip to Filicudi as agreed but the idiot never showed up. Perhaps he overslept because we only left Chittara at 2am last night, or maybe he decided he was not going to waste time playing tour guide since I only wanted to be friends. Just as I was rubbing my eyes and cursing under my morning breath, I spotted Martine in pink squinting at me under the glare of the early sun and we were once again reunited! What a blessing in disguise!

It turned out she had ran off last night from the pack to look for me but didn't realise I was at the back. With some time to kill, we had colazione at her hotel and walked around Lipari dock harrassing the local fishermen cleaning their fresh catch and young navy men in their tight white uniforms for photo opportunities. When it was time for her tour group to board the hydrofoil, I was sad to see them off as everyone shook my hand, kissed my cheeks and gave me their blessings. And I was by myself again.

Feeling sleepy and boogle-eyed but reluctant to waste the lovely morning in bed, I pushed myself on visiting the Baroque-style churches, Museo Archeologico and ancient castello on the hill and sighed to the all-round panoramic views of Lipari (10 times better than Ibiza).

I also chanced upon a group of lazy gorgeous cats and poked my head into their owners' cluttered apartment and spoke to 2 sweet elderly brothers. The younger brother gladly pointed out all 14 cats, including one which just had an eye operation, and fished out the cat food to gather them for a group photo when I asked 'Posso fotograph?'. They were so lovely and generous with the cats; I'd love to listen to their life stories but I was cracking up in the heat and from the lack of sleep.

After a simple spaghetti alla pescatora (5,20euros) and feeling brain-dead, I had difficulty understanding the Italian auntie who was rattling on too fast and grouchily when I inquired her about the bus to the other towns. An old taxi driver quoted me 40 euros for a 1 and half hour tour of the island but I waved him off with 'Tanto per me perche sono sola' (too much for me because i am solo). Like a zombie, I walked along the dockside aimlessly for an hour till I got all hot and bothered and popped into a tour agency. Luckily the pretty English-speaking Marina told me which bus to take and I ran to the bus-stop just in time to hop onto one and saw the awe-inspiring pumice white coastline along Canneto and Acquacalda.
At 6.30pm smelling fresh post-shower, I soaked up the sunset at the communal terrace where I chatted with Jochen, an older German solo traveller. We cringed to the loud chimes from the church across the street and were calmed by a stream of harmonious chorus at the evening mass. As the sun dipped beyond the hills in full view, we compared notes on some of our best travels and family backgrounds, and he told me I had to climb Stromboli and crumble under its terrifying inferno hold.

Later we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner of mixed antipasti and involtini pesce spada (swordfish rolls with breadcrumbs, anchovies & red pepper) but I got uncomfortable with his laugh and excused myself to the L'Approdo wine bar again where my amici Aless and Sebastian treated me to fresh fruits and sesame biscotti with my discounted glass of Malvasia wine (6,50 to 4,50 euros). They were sad to find out I was leaving Lipari for Salina and hoped to see me again in future. "Spero, con mia amici prossima volta" (I hope, with my friends next time) was my reply.