Firenze tutto bella

I left Barbialla Nuova yesterday after biding farewell to Ciro and got on the train to Firenze followed by an autobus to Guido's cosy bachelor pad. It was centrally tucked away next to the Boboli Gardens and directions were clearly illustrated with Marco's hand-drawn map. I couldn't believe I'd be back here for the 3rd time! At first, I wanted to stay away from cities but who could resist the Renaissance charm of Firenze and the kind offer of two free nights' stay!

Anyway I dropped my bags and followed Marco's lunch recommendation at the 17-year-old kiosk establishment 'Il Trippaio' at Porta Romana. It was the only eatery at the piazza next to the verdura stall and I joined the queue pondering what to order.

I made friends with Simone, a young local lamp artisan, as he was probably curious why I was taking pictures of my dish and peeping greedily at his 'Trippa Bianca' (tender bits of tripe slow cooked in pomodoro and leeks). He was so kind to offer me some of his order while I tucked into the star specialty 'Bollito Misto' - boiled mixed beef parts including boiled tender cheeks, tongue, tripe and 'zampa' (feet) sprinkled with salt, pepper, piquante oil and the homemade salsa verde (made from prezzemolo, Simone said).

I told the owner Mario and his wife Manola that it was buonissimo (great!) ma tantissimo (too much) for my piccolo stomach! Like Marco, Simone pronounced this kiosk was the best in Firenze and that people from all classes flock to enjoy the 'medieval fast food' which was originally the poor man's street food. Simone even spotted and gleefully pointed out 'Prince Corsini' in his spotless summer linen suit tucking into a plate.

When I could eat no more, Simone showed me his shop nearby and I invited him to join me and the gang at Piazza Santo Spirito for drinks. It was the local hangout, away from the maddening tourists, serviced by an outdoor summer bar and trattorie aplenty.

I then had a full day sightseeing, starting with the Mercato Centrale market and the San Lorenzo's open market which I remembered fondly from my first visit to Firenze, when F and I had stayed in a room overlooking the bustling lanes. Time seemed to have stood still - nothing's changed much but I could see why Marco said Firenze was now robbed by the tourists.

I moved around effortlessly in the compact city using the imposing and impossibly stunning Duomo as the guiding landmark. It was so crowded and I was glad to have seen the inside before. I hurried back across the Ponte Vecchio where I found some peace and solace in a cup of double-scooped gelato by the river.

Having seen the Uffizi, my guidebook led me to Santa Maria del Carmine and its Brancacci Chapel, housing one of the greatest works in the entire Renaissance period. The vivid frescos were first started in 1425 by Masolino da Panicale, who painted the Temptation of Adam and Eve, and then continued by geniuses Masaccio and Filippino Lippi. All of us just sat there in the calm silence and admired the centuries-old ceilings in awe.

At around 8pm, I joined Marco, Anita and their friends from Cyprus for a lovely dinner at a packed local trattoria nearby. We ordered as the waitress rambled off the specials of the day, starting with the must-try Toscana crostini laden with liver pate, porcini and tuna. My beef stew con misti funghi sauce was matched with a side contorno of perfectly deepfried zuchini.

I could just live in Firenze for le arte and cucina, but alas, I had to say arrivederci to all my new-found amici and depart for the hot springs in Saturnia - my personal holy grail. Hopefully I can find it!