After we got back from Milano, the weather remained chilly even at Perugia. I told L we can't complain of the cold now since we always bitched about the heat before. Meglio freddo che caldo. The week crept by and everyone was all wrapped up in their autunno/inverno vestiti except me. I just layered my cardigan over my long-sleeved Mango top over my whatever I have. At least the jeans and sneakers can come in useful now and keep me warm... untill the wind blows and freezes my skinny arse.
We did our last test of the course, and afterwards I was the most relaxed, because it unofficially marked the end of my course. Unlike others, I had chosen not to do the esame, perche 1) odio esami (I hate exams) 2) non ho bisogno il diploma o il stress (I don't need the dip or stress) 3) preferisco di partire piu presto a spendere piu tempo con L (I prefer to leave earlier and spend more time with L). On venerdi, Prof. Teresa (whom Mic and I shared a secret laugh when we noticed she actually has a moustache upclose) brought us on a field trip to visit the fabbrica di Perugina to see how the cioccolato was made. Perugia is known worldwide for their 'baci' (kisses), where inside every cioccolato, there's a message of love attached. The profumo di cacao lingered in the air as we were led from the presentation lounge to the factory and then the museo. Outside the rain continued to pour - un perfetto tempo per cioccolato e baci.
That last weekend at Perugia (si, we couldn't believe it's the last too), we coordinated a weekend getaway for us, Michele, Yuko seconda and Yuko Terza, and drove to Parma and nearby Casa Lanzarotti at BorgoTaro (which L has nicknamed Borgo di Cazzo becos it's quite tucked away). Il tempo non era male, infatti c'era sole fino a Milano dov'e' sempre grigio. Mic kept the Jap girls talking while we enjoyed the scenery during the 4-hour ride up. At Parma, everyone was excited by the buzz in the citta - the 2 Yukos wishing they had studied here instead of boring Perugia. It was hard to find a parcheggio al centro so we took a risk and parked in a slot reserved for residents (later we got a multa of 36e, che palle).
As this was my 3rd time, I knew my way around and brought them to the very packed Sorelle Picchi for a satisfying pranzo of antipasto di prosciutto, local pasta such as cappelletti and the vino du jour - the sparkling dark red Lambrusco. While L took a nap in the Ford, we strolled around and Mic bought more goodies for tonight - grappa, Lambrusco, prosciutto and formaggio. Contenti, we drove 30mins to BorgoTaro, which sets the stage for funghi harvest at this time of the year.
The scenery became familiar as we turned into the green valley among the lush montagne, alongside the pebbled stream that snaked around the terra. I immediately felt at peace and at home. Being the guida, I happily announced to the gruppo that we've arrived at Borgo Val di Cazzo (Taro). It was as I remembered, leading to Gotra and the cafe-bar-shop where I used to hike down an hour for sigarette e vino. We found Casa Lanzarotti easily and a scruffy Swiss WOOFer Paola was there to greet us as Iris was at the mercato and Gianluca was on Red Cross duty.
The fattoria seemed smaller and more battered; the cats timida Puffa and sweet Georgina, the animals and the greenhouses were still there. I proudly pointed out the caravan at the backyard where I used to sleep, the pomodori, zucchini and vegetables plots and the ripe apple trees. Ole Giacomina the horse was still there among the sheeps, albeit looking very scrawny - her ribs showing under her taut tanned leathery skin which has lost its sheen. She must be at least 80+ years in human age.
L was going crazy like a dog on heat, sniffing the baskets of warm freshly-baked bread left out in the open to cool. Pane and patata were his droga. Iris returned in time and after a round of hugs and handshakes, we sat down for a wonderful four-course cena of salume and cured zucchini, followed by her homemade local pasta sheets al pesto, stewed cinghiale (wild boar) with fagiolini and carote, and marmalade torta. Ahhhh. Mic was in his element and interrogated the 2 Yukos about their way of life, their approach to romance and marriage. Iris came in and out clearing the courses, amused at our intermediate italiano.
As I had hoped for, everyone was warm, full and extremely pleased with the agriturismo esperienza. L told me earlier by chance he had seen Yuko Terza dancing quietly with joy by herself - that to us was her conservative Japanese way of expressing her happiness. We grabbed our coats and a bottiglia di grappa and sat outside in the cold silent darkness to admire the glorious blanket of stars. It was about 4 deg C so we went in for more vino and a game of world map picture puzzle till late. I was surprised the thick woolly blanket served us well throughout the night, infatti I kicked it off at some point towards dawn as the warmth crept up.
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