There was pasta with baby mussels and zucchini, insalata di polpo (octopus) and my favourite fat green olives from their family friend Enrico. I peeped into the well-stocked frigo with food to last a month as most shops and markets were closed for ferragosto. After dinner, his cugina Linda and hubby Massimo (who has since trimmed down a lot) came over with their 3 lovely kids - Felice, Valerio and Michela - all golden brown like a typical italian famiglia. It was great to see them again, after nearly a year. A shame the 2 zitelle zie were on a cruise holiday, but 'meglio cosi', said L who didn't want to deal with their insistent questions.
The following morning, Mel was up early frying zucchini fritters for me which drove L crazy. Ahh, family. We hurried to catch the 11am+ ferry (10e) to Ischia, also known as the green isle among Capri and Procida, for some sun and sea. The bus no. 2 was packed to the brim and we managed to hold on tight untill our stop at Citara. Every spot along the spiaggie was taken up by the sun-worshipping hordes of tourists; infatti L said the population here swells up to 5 times in summer. The water's not bad but couldn't compare to the Sicilian seas - anyway I turned brown in an hour while L turned a slight roasted pink. Luckily we decided to leave as the heat got unbearable, and managed to wave down the packed 4pm bus in time for the 5pm ferry back. 
That evening, we moved into Linda and Massimo's house as they had gone for a family beach getaway. They got a spacious top-level flat with a bigarse terrace which overlooked the bay. We had some of L's old friends for drinks and to admire the ferragosto fireworks. I was quite proud of myself, chatting with Mario, Cristina, Alessandro and his friendly Spanish ragazza Nora. I don't like being the dumb Asian chick, handicapped by the language and social skills. At times I feel frustrata and disadvantaged by italiano because it doesn't allow me to fully express my point of view and 'argue' on equal terms. I'd ask L, why can't the stupid italians speak english?? 
Sabato, we drove to Napoli to pick up Michele who agreed with me that the citta is the underbelly of Italia, where the rejects of societa' fit in. Nothing shocks anyone here, esp the gypsies, homeless, drunks, drug addicts and illegal overstayers. The best thing to do is to mind your own f*ckin' business and try not to stare at anyone. Perhaps that's why everyone seemed to maintain an air of indifference, yet at the same time cultivate a quick reflex for criminals, beggars and bad drivers. L's a great example, he seemed very chilled here but I could sense he's always on guard. We went to see the amazing Duomo again (this time I brought my camera) and then the richly frescoed Cappella Sansevero for its masterpiece - the Cristo Velato marble scultura with its intricately carved details. 
We then drove to Zio Rino's 'La Vigna' agriturismo /ristorante/ vineyard (www.lavignaagriturismo.com) for a sumptuous pranzo at its shady courtyard under a thick cover of green grapevines. There were antipasti of salumi, formaggi, olives, fagioli beans, mushrooms, bruschette, fritters and crusty bread washed down with chilled vino bianco. Rino then arranged a tasting platter of 2 pasta and 1 risotto, and a big slab of grilled bistecca with rucola e patate which made us groaned with protests. 
Rino then showed off his 5 new camere and farm where they grow their own vegetables, vines, fruit trees, and reared rabbits for meat and chickens for eggs. He didn't want to give us the bill at first but we insisted because it's after all a business. When we left, it was close to 5.30pm already so we walked off the calories at the new long jetty and soaked up the tramonto at Parco Virgiliano. 
We did niente on Sunday as L was feeling the effects of sleeping in an air-con room; the poor guy's very sensitive to change in temperature and pollution. Mel whipped up a satisfying lasagne, parmigiana, and surprised me with a tray of my fav aragoste alla nutella! Everytime she'd have a gleam in her eyes and cut open the familiar blue-wrapped pasticceria tray. Grateful, I gobbled down 2 with some espresso. His cugini - Paola, Fabrizio e Angelo - came over to hang out, followed by Zio Adolfo, his wife Margherita and 2 kids Vincenzo and Alessia. In the evening, we went to throw the trash and decided to go for a quiet passeggiata around town. But Pozzuoli's such a small town, it's impossible not to run into a family member or friend. 
First, there was Enzo's amico Arturo (who thanked me for recommending them Sirocco bar at Bangkok), then Angelo at the dodgy carpark, and poi Mario, Aless, Nora and Pablo at the nearby parco. L was wheezing a lot by this time and his eyes watery so we hurried home and walked by nonna's flat, where Zia Silvana was at the balcone. We then saw Zio Rino and their figlia Federica stepping out of the car and decided to pop in for a minuto. Just as we were leaving, nonna and all the other zie and zii came back much to L's dismay, and it was a madhouse at the streets below. Everyone started talking at the same time, and coming forth to kiss me on the cheeks. There was a flurry of faces - Zia Giovanna, Zio Pepe, Zia Maria, Zio Mimo, Zio Matteo (whom I've never met before) and his snobbish wife Anna. After lunch the next day, we took the treno back to Perugia and were actually quite glad to have some peace and quiet in our own home. Classes resumed and that mercoledi, we went to a student concerto and held an impromptu festa at the balcone above the stage area, but were asked to take our party somewhere. Bo. The standard was not fantastico but the studenti put up a good, varied show and everyone started dancing to the last act.
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