Casa Sweet Casa

Omg, I can't believe it's the end of February. Where did the time go? 2012 started on a mad rush with Chinese New Year after Xmas and NYE. Our week getaway in Koh Samui was now a distance memory, albeit a good memory with Gino and Ema as we scooted around the isle and worked on our tan and beauty sleep. Koh Samui hasn't changed much except Chaweng was quite madcap and it's best to avoid staying there if you don't like crowds and loud techno-parties on the beach! But having said that, it has a fabulous stretch of beach for people-watching and swimming. (See the contrasting photos of Chaweng at day and night here.)

We also met up with B, the Thai wife of L's second cousin who lives there and it was sad to find out about their pending divorce. She's a sweet lady and L felt sorry for her and offered her a job at his italian ristorante and she accepted it! G and E stayed on to enjoy the rest of their honeymoon and then back to Italia after their month-long honeymoon. I'd love to take off for a month too when we eventually tie the knot. Eventually lol.

Meanwhile I'm enjoying my time travelling and churning out travel stories based on the Chiangmai and Koh Samui trips for Appetite magazine - and soon Taiwan and Burma! It's always so rewarding to see my words and photos in print *beaming with pride*. I think if I don't have my current job or retire early, I'd be a travel blogger so I can see and experience the world! (See below my story based on the last trip in Chiangmai.)

During CNY, we had welcomed Enzo, L's other cousin who came and left besotted with Spore and a particular Chinese girl. I ate my fair share of yusheng and fortune pot, harbouring hopes for abundance so we can finally buy our dream home this year (please please let the prices drop). If you haven't heard, my 2 siblings have moved out last year into their gorgeous homes while moi madamoiselle is still at home with the folks, 2 cats and L. I missed Jarvis so much as he has moved to my sis but he seems really happy to be there and has even put on weight. Thus I had the libery to adopt Lola aka Snowy from Blessings Home cattery. She's such a sweetie - very affectionate, loving lap cat! Hopefully Mimi will get along with her and not be jealous.

Now there's more space and no more fighting over the bathroom, tv, last bottle of juice, etc. Admittedly I'm also envious and wish for my own place. At the moment, I'm caught in a dilemma. As a single, I can't buy a bigger flat which we want so I might look at the private property since L is not ready yet to walk down the aisle. But private digs are so expensive and I'm not sure if I should finance it entirely. But I can't push L to marry me. He has to do it for the right reasons at his own time. However the clock's ticking and before we know it, my eggs will be 38 years old next year! Harrumph.

We haven't spent a lot of time together since he's always so busy at work and only has Tuesdays off, thus I had taken Valentine's Day off (Tues) to have quality time together. I woke up to prepare sauteed beef with onions, rocket and truffle oil to be eaten with a French loaf, paired with an excellent bottle of sparkling Lambrusco from Parma. Then there is a plum and mint salad as dessert. L gobbled everything up and then promptly fell asleep while the waves crashed, the wind blew and the birds chirped. I love this boy. *Un bacio!*

Call Of Chiangmai

I try to go to Thailand once a year so when my mentor Guru G suggested we go to Chiangmai with him over a long weekend in October, my friend N and I said yes readily. What's more, he would bring us to visit the Elephant Nature Park and Red Karen hilltribe village projects which he has been involved for years. It would be a real privilege for us.

On day one, we made fast friends with Chom, his girlfriend Gig and other equally kind-hearted souls in his close-knitted family in Chiangmai - especially when fuelled by many rounds of Singha beer and Absolut vodka at dinner. Lol. On the second day, we visited the Elephant Nature Park www.elephantnaturepark.org about an hour away by car. Located in a lush valley surrounded by mountains. this reserve was started by a brave young woman Lek who was in Bangkok rescuing the dogs, cats and monkeys from the floods at the time of our visit. What's amazing about this park is that it doesn't make the elephants give rides, paint, kick football or do tricks.

They are just there as majestic elephants in all their glory - to be fed lots of their favourite food and be bathed by the visitors in the river. They also got a volunteers programme for those on a longer stay who can help chop up the fruits and manintain the grounds. Ok I admit I'm guilty of riding an elephant before at Phuket - thinking I could support their cause this way - but boy I was wrong after watching a documentary on how the young elephants are separated from their mothers since young and then chained inside small cages for days or weeks to starve them, break their spirit and make them obey their masters or mahouts ;( So I've learnt to avoid these tourist traps such as elephant rides and please also avoid paying for pictures taken with baby elephants and monkeys on the streets as many of these animals were separated from their mothers to become street beggers.

After a fulfilling buffet lunch, G gave us an insider tour of the camp, his gardens, his little hut by the river and also told us stories of each elephant, including the one who broke his arm. We then fed the elephants copious amount of fruits and witnessed an alpha male on heat who was trumpeting so loudly and tried to 'rape' a female who ran away keke. Oooh I think I can camp here, work on the gardens and breathe the fresh mountain air for a few months :) it's like WWOOFing!

The next day, G's friend Malibu picked us up from the T-Room guestroom (cheap/ $20, clean and very central www.t-roomguesthouse.com ) where we stayed and drove his jeepster truck for a good 4 hours+ to Chiangdao nature reserve to visit the Red Karen hilltribe village. The scenery was breathtaking and it got cooler as we whizzed by green bamboo groves and climbed the hills. Chom got out, showed us his martial arts skill, and chopped down a few bamboo tubes to cook rice tonight.

Upon arrival at the village, Chom's family was so warm and welcoming. They treated us like VIPs and let me and N sleep on the mattresses in their almost completed house that was built recently. We looked on curiously as they went about preparing a hearty feast of roast chicken (ingeniously cooked within a cooking oil tin can inside a hole in the ground!), plus stir-fried local vegs, grilled green eggplant, veg curry and a plateful of fried bamboo worms that's their protein source and delicacy. Yup it was gross to look at and something I'm not dying to eat. Aside from the salt and pepper seasoning, it just tasted rubbery and popped / pooed in the mouth. Eeuuk.

We brought out the few huge china bags of secondhand clothings and stationery for the villagers, and it was such a humble experience to see them come try on the clothes and walk away happily with the stuff. The kids were the cutest and were treated to marshmallows melted over a fire and sky lanterns which we released along with our hopes and blessings.

After dinner, we showered as quickly as we could, scooping cold water in the candlelight. It was quite chilly and we couldn't sleep well although we probably had the best room in town. At 4am+, the cock started to crow and prep us for dawn. Admittedly we couldn't imagine living there without our usual comforts or volunteering for 1 week under such conditions (he said in December, it gets colder so this was nothing). Respect to G and his volunteers who raise money to build water treatment tanks for the villagers otherwise they'd have to walk 2 hours to get fresh water. He also taught them to grow fruit trees and vegs to feed the family. It was great to see the direct lasting impact one can have on the lives of others. N and I are so inspired that we want to start a "Book A Tree" project on our return trip.

After a hearty breakfast of porridge, fried catfish, French toast and jungle tea, we walked around the village to see the other houses, gardens, schools and then packed our bags for the long ride back to Chiangmai. Boy, were we so glad and grateful to be back at the T-Room, which suddenly became 'luxurious' compared to the village!

On the last day, we were all the more elated to check into The Chedi boutique hotel which sponsored a night's stay for a review and travel story I'd be writing for Appetite magazine. Grazie dio! Lunch was lovely indeed at the restaurant that's located in the colonial wing, although their khao soi curry noodle cost 350 baht when the street version was only 30 baht and tasted more authentic. Probably best if we tabao back and eat haha. We could have slept for a week in our deluxe room and just survived on Singha beer while relaxing at our chillout balcony that overlooked the serene courtyard.

Coincidentally the last night was Halloween so after a great bbq dinner with the gang at The Thai Restaurant near T-Room, we went to the Lost Hut pub next door for drinks. Before that, we had a leisure tour of the Sunday Walking Market - a definite highlight of Chiangmai. There's so much to buy and most stuff is so cheap that you don't need to bargain. It rained a fair bit but luckily we had just enough time to shop for what we want. Alas it was time to leave but it has been a rewarding and fun trip. I couldn't wait to return.

Hot Italian summer wedding

Wow, I just realised I haven't uploaded my blog since May. It's been a whirlwind of events since then. We've been to Italia and back, COTW exhibition is over and a great success may I add, and I've turned a year older and wiser in July - having spent a wonderful birthday in my motherland. I've also finally sorted out my nagging 'problem' by going for the minor surgery (resting at home so I have some time on my hand). Don't worry, all is well and I feel enlivened and renewed.

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves in Italia, having been away for more than 2 years. It's great to breathe the air, parla la lingua (I still remember!), mangia tutto, and see everyone again. Getting spoilt by la famiglia is wonderful and the only thoughts that bugged me daily were what to eat today?? :) Raf bought fresh cornetto pastries, proscuitto, cheeses and vino while Melina cooked her fabulous pastas and seafood treats. Naturally I piled on 4kg while L dared not admit his total weight gain.

In between homecooked meals at home and at Linda's, I also checked out a few pizzerie, trattorie and a cheese producer  for a food story in Appetite (Sept issue) - with the help of kind family members and friends. It was worth every calorie. The pizza was especially good at the legendary Da Michele and Sorbillo - not to mention the sinful FRIED pizza at D'e' Figliole. We also made repeat trips to Naples centrale to wine and dine at the elegant yet relaxed seafood ristorante Mimi alla Ferrovia and braved the dodgy backlanes of the Spanish Quarters to locate the brash and crazy Trattoria Nennella for some good ole cucina casa linga.

L's cousin also arranged for me to visit a local artisanal cheese producer - Caseificio di Costanzo - to talk to the owner and see how their cheeses are made at the production line. Naturalmente we also bought tons of the various cheeses (fresh, smoked, wrapped, baked) to enjoy at home. Their prized mozzarella is still made by hand everyday and the quality clearly shows. It is dreamily milky, creamy and lush. I heard L's parents have been back a few times since then so that's a good endorsement. (For more info on the authentic eats in Naples, see my list of recommendations at the end of this blog.)

The main event of our summer trip was of course L's sister's matrimonio and she looks so radiant and in love with M who is American filippino (which means I'm not the only Asian in the famiglia now ha). They make such a cute couple and we truly wish them happiness and joy. The intimate wedding was held at the top of the solfatara hill at an elegant hotel Gli Dei and everyone was overjoyed and also couldn't stop asking us when is our turn.

My cousin Al and his gf were also fortunate to end their Italian summer vacation at Pozzuoli where they got a taste of such warm hospitality and big love from La Famiglia. After the wedding, Raf bought us tickets for a daytrip to the bella isola di Capri where we worked on our tan at the marina and also saw the magical grotta azzura (see photos). We tried to swap our ferry tickets for a refund so that we can rent a private boat around the isle (not bad at 120euros) but alas, it was not to be. The grotta was lovely with its azzuro sparkling waters and the boatman even obliged us by singing "O' Ole Mio" which echoed through the cave. But I wasn't impressed that he kept asking for tips.

We took the funicular up to the top of the hill for a wide vista of Capri and strolled along the cobbled streets. There are elegant shops, cafes and hotels - with expensive price tags. Luckily our lunch was free at a pre-booked  ristorante where we sat under a limone tree heavy with palm-sized fruits and munched on pasta, fried calamari and birra. Capri is indeed the glamourous cousin of Ischia and Procida but it's too high maintenance for common people like moi. Gimme Procida the cutie anytime!

While Luigi was contented to just chill in his bedroom all day and lap up his mama's love, I had an itchy backside and need to max out my time in Italia. So I needed no excuse to head out to the malls, see the rest of Naples bay and also saw the gladiatore amfiteatro-museo at Capua with Linda and Mel (also a Spartacus fan). It was good fun hamming it up and fantasize what it's like for Spartacus and his army of renagades. *roar*

Our dear amico Michele also flew down from Munich to join us for a week and he got along famously with everyone, especially L's folks. We made a daytrip to the isle of Procida to visit zio Adolfo and his family who always rents a villa there every summer and had a simple homecooked lunch with lots of wine followed by a walk around the island. I always have great memories of our first trip to Procida and shooting all the wonderful cats there. We even spoke to the fisherman who was with Carolina the cat at the fish shop (in the photo which I exhibited at COTW) but he told us she is gone. Poor gal. She is replaced by another chubby tabby.

A few days later, we drove south to the beautiful coast of Calabria and Basilicata with Mic, L's cousin Gino and fiancee Ema. As it was still July, we had the beaches to ourselves most of the time as we baked by the pebbled bay for 2 days. The beach towns of Belvedere and Diamante were such gems and came alive at night as everyone showed off their tans and paced the portsdown promenade. The summery vibes and glorious sunsets reminded me of Ibiza. Bellissima. I wish we could afford a nice summer villa here in future.

Four kgs heavier after the trip, I wrote a story for Appetite magazine (Sept 2011 issue) on authentic restaurants, pizzerie and shops at Napoli - big thanks to all my kind and patient Italian guides (Valerio, Salvatore, Luigi, Gino e Ema). Do visit these places when you are in Naples as they are truly local:

*Armando Scaturchio
A local chain of pastry shop/cafes for shiny cases of pastries, baba' rum cakes and caffe. Via Porta Medina Alla Pignasecca, 24 (various branches in city centre).

*Attanasio
A famous lil pastry shop located off a small lane at Piazza Garibaldi. Go there in the morning for oven-hot sfogliatelle and arragoste pastries stuffed with sweet ricotta or cioccolata. Vico Ferrovia, 2.

*Gay Odin

A chain of artisanal chocolate shop; try the foresta milk bars, bon bon and caffe-laced confetti. Via Toledo, 427 (various branches). http://www.gay-odin.it/

*La Sfogiatella Mary
You can't miss this small kiosk counter that's gleaming with all kinds of pastries, cookies and cakes. Along the busy shopping street of Via Toledo, 66 (entrance of Galleria Umberto).


*Gran Caffe Gambrinus
Near Galleria Umberto, you'll find this most famous and expensive cafe in town. Come here to see and be seen among the Prada-clad crowds. Via Chiaia, 1-2. http://www.caffegambrinus.com/

*D’e’ Figliole
Best fried pizza in town at this hole-in-the-wall which is near Da Michele. The stuffed pizza dough is freshly fried a la minute and tastes like our Chinese hum chee pang. Via Giudecca Vecchia, 39.

*Da Michele
For the best traditional neapolitano pizza, head to this legendary pizzeria where they only serve 2 types of pizza from 4euros. Order of the day is Margherita doppia mozzarella. Be prepared to queue an hour during dinnertime while lunch is less hectic. Julia Roberts shot 'Eat, Pray, Love' here. Via Cesare Sersale, 1. http://www.damichele.net/

*Di Matteo
There are 3 noteworthy pizzerie along Via dei Tribunali and this is one of them for cheap frittata and pizza. Unit 94. http://www.pizzeriadimatteo.it/

*Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente
You can't miss the vibrant facade of this popular pizzeria. Also good for fried fried things on the go and pizza judging from the delivery orders. Via dei Tribunali, 120/121. http://www.ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it/

*Sorbillo

There are 2 Sorbillo along Via dei Tribunali so be sure to track down unit 32 for the real deal. There is often a long queue at this hotspot where the pizza choices are astounding. www.accademiadellapizza.it

*La Vera Granita

Everyone flocks to this busy roadside kiosk-shop for the fresh fruity granita which comes in seasonal flavours. Open till late, at the intersection of Corso Garibaldi and Via Casanova (near Porta Capuana).

*Mimi alla Ferrovia

Also near Piazza Garibaldi is this elegant yet intimate seafood ristorante. Prices are affordable and the seafood swimmingly fresh. Service is old-school European. Via Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. http://www.mimiallaferrovia.it/

*Trattoria Nennella

We braved the dodgy Spanish Quarters' backlanes to locate this thriving non-pretentious eatery. The service is brash, fun and loud and the food is true-blue neapolitana cucina and damn cheap at 15 euros for the set menu. A must-eat is the pasta al patata. Vico Lungo Teatro Nuovo, 105 (turn into a small lane off Via Toledo).

*Mini Caseificio Costanzo

We made a trip to their flagship store in Aversa and even toured the production line to see how the cheese are made by hand. This artisanal cheese producer has a shop in Naples near the stadium. Worth a trip to taste their fine mozzarella and divine ricotta-pear tart. Via Lepanto, 118/120. http://www.mozzarellacostanzo.com/  

So Far Soul Good

Sorry I've been MIA but work has been crazy with 1 woman down and weekends also taken up by gardening, cat shelter visits to play with Bobby and the many other cat orphans, and recently a volunteer stint with Sea Shepherd which opened up my eyes to the selfless people out there who care about the environment and creatures. There are other NGOs at ADEX such as WWF, Sharks Savers etc with volunteers who took down signatures for petitions and talked passionately to the visitors about their causes. If only more people give a damn and walk the talk... With May closing in, I'm also trying to tie the loose ends for COTW photo exhibition and shortlist the cat photos. We managed to secure 6 quality vendors for the Saturday Purrzaar so I'm tres happy :) When the exhibition launch is over, I can take a well-deserved break in Italia for 3 weeks - woahooo - and you know what, I found the purrfect violet toga dress for L's summer wedding! Just need to shop for the goddessy gold shoes, clutch and earrings to complete the look. Enjoy the long weekend ahead, baci xxx

Hello Bunny, Bye Kitty

Ok I am being cheesy as always but it's true, we have to say sayonara to the Year of The Tiger and hop into the Year of The Rabbit with new promises and dreams. Chinese New Year came swiftly after the year-end celebrations, a reminder of how quick time flies by in a blink and what the f#%K I'm doing with my life! I'm constantly reflecting on this, especially after reading the excellent book "The Element" on finding your element and re-reading "Eat, Pray, Love" (just realised the writer Liz is Cancerian and as neurotic as me).

Anyway I had spent a super chilled 5 days in December at Saigon with my sista and folks, slurping up pho and chomping down on fresh paper rolls. It was our first time there and our conclusion was it's a tad over-rated (especially the attractions) but no complains over the food and kind hospitality. However we very much prefer Hoi An and Hanoi where are more charming.

Already L and I are looking forward to a 3-week summer vacanza in Italia and attending the bello matrimonio of his sister Linda. If all weddings are like their cousin's grand affair napolitano-style, we're in for a treat. Just thinking of the delizioso multi-course 8-hour lunch is enough for me to pick a looser dress (no way I am skipping the mozzarella!). Her future in-laws and family are also flying in from USA and the Philippines, so I won't be the only Asian at the wedding. Such a interesting wedding it will be.



Love is in the air :)

Looking  back, 2010 has been a rewarding year - with 2 new additions to our office. We are certainly gonna celebrate our company's 10th anniversario in style and pamper ourselves with another spa outing. We just had a AGM to figure our plans ahead before time slips away. I find that I worry too much (Cancerians are the worriers among all the signs) so my foremost resolution is to stop worrying and still the mind. 

Other new mottos are to:
- embrace abundance and celebrate everyday's opportunities
- wear more colours and be adventurous and have fun with fashion
- get creative and sporty again to inject more spirit into my soul
- and to stop worrying - so be it!

Kyoto, Osaka e Nara

The Shinkansen fast speed train is amazing. Within 2 hours of leaving Hakone, we arrived at Kyoto - the traditional homeland of kimonos and geishas. Of all the Japanese cities, we were most enamoured with Kyoto (L hopes to move here in future) as it was a beautiful blend of old school and modern conveniences. I think we are also both old souls who must have lived in Kyoto before. The grand city is best explored on bicycle (cheap rental rates and flat wide roads) or by public transport. We spent a whole day riding our elegant bikes all over town - and got lost a couple of times, poking our heads into quaint UNESCO heritage decorated temples and shrines, and on my part, hoping to catch a glimpse of koyo (the changing of seasons where the maple tree leaves turn a deep shade of red).

Be warned; Kyoto cannot be explored entirely in 1 day, nope not even 3 days as we found out. (I wondered how some friends only set aside 1 day trip in Kyoto, such a shame, cannot lah). Just Gion alone is worth a day and night to investigate. The renowned geisha zone was a hotbed of tourists as everyone is on the hunt for geishas which are more easily spotted in the evening (we laughed at a bunch of American students who were beseeching the Jap policemen in slow, loud English and in broad daylight "wheeereee can we seeee the Geeei-shas?").

In the day, it's best to take a stroll across the Kamo river and spent some time at the traditional teahouses sipping on fragrant green tea and chowing down on macha mochi with azuki beans. At night, while searching for a decent ramen joint, we tried to peep into the private KTV clubs and kaiseki restaurants manned by sharp-looking bouncers in black. Very often, some burly drunken Jappy businessmen would roll out with 2 perfectly coiffed Japanese ladies (some in modern dresses, mostly in ornate kimonos). Are they high class escorts or modern geishas? It's totally fascinating to second guess what goes on behind the screens.

Can you see from this picture - why did the geisha cross the road?
To get away from the shutter-mad crowd!

After Kyoto, we spent a night at the ancient imperial city of Nara, which is incidentally celebrating its 1,300th anniversary. Woa-hor. My sis was in Japan around the same time as me for the Goddess' Golden Light trip and I can imagine the kind of ancient knowing energy they were tapping into. Nara is kinda sandwiched between Kyoto and Osaka so it can be easily visited on a day trip from either city. Famous for its deer park (where these sacred creatures are allowed to roam freely and terrorise people - ok I made it up), it is infamous for its mascot Sento-kun - a smiling Buddha boy with deer antlers - a controversy given the violent reaction when it was first unveiled. Even my Jap friend 'Yuka Maya' who was normally quite reserved and sweet made a face and said it is not kawaii neh. I thought it was rather cute, given that I like deers and Buddha. Strangely it also bore an unlikely resemblance to Luigi (both have kind blue eyes, compassionate aura and bald heads). We toured the tiny city's temples and pagodas on foot, and even saw Nara's oldest tree. Tourists also fed biscuits to the greedy deers (not me), which are not afraid to nudge and jostle you for food. I was thinking what'd happen to the roadkill? Sento sashimi? 

Post Nara, we can't wait for Osaka - Japan's hungriest city, where the 2 Yukos were already anticipating our visit. It was great to see them after 2 years since Perugia. Osaka's vibes are more toned down, casual and the city's easy to befriend as we walked from the main train station to our hotel in the throbbing Dotonburi district - the very heartbeat of Osaka where people-watching is entertainment indeed. Every lane is filled with cafes, eateries and shops - it seemed that no one really sleeps nor stops eating here. Street food is at its best and cheapest at Osaka, with affordable fast food inventions like L's favourite takoyaki balls and sizzling okomomiyaki pancakes sold at every corner. We also walked into a couple of "love hotels" that were in our area and saw from the automated check-in panel that they have large thematic kinky rooms. Hilarious. I even spotted a porn DVD vending machine on our walkabout!  

On the 2nd night, Yuko1 insisted we stayed at her family home at Kitano, a sleepy cosy town smacked between the bermuda triangle of Nara, Osaka and Kyoto. Perhaps this was her attempt at returning the favour (when she last slept over at Pozzuoli) but hey, we won't say not to Japanese hospitality. Her folks were supremely charming and open, and our exchange was almost comedic as the Yukos translated our Italian conversations to Japanese and comedic English. It was her brother's birthday and (funnily) at our request, her parents had organised a takoyaki party in honour of us (L was over the moon). Takoyaki is the steamboat equivalent here - almost every household has a takoyaki pot and recipe. Needless to say, we had a ball of a time (pun intended haha) as we churned out plates after plates of tako stuffed with octopus bits and cheese, washed down with Japanese birra. The temperature dipped and was chilly but we slept snugly in their family tatami room. Arrigato, amici! 

Luigi's perfectly cooked tako balls - bravo!

Ciao Giappone

It has been more than 10 years since I was last in Japan on a 1-night stopover to Beijing with my beloved granny and all I can remember is 1) how cold it was 2) the campy, kawaii and fun Disneyland and 3) how good everything tasted, especially the short-grain Japanese rice. This time round, we went for a well-deserved vacanza and also to meet up with some of my Japanese classmates from Perugia. I was expecting it to be cooler in October but Yuko3 said they had a very hot summer so 'koyo' (changing of colours of leaves) would be delayed till November. Bummer.

For our first rainy weekend in Tokyo, we stayed in the thumpin' Shinjuku area that glimmered with billboards and was brimming with youthful energy. The mood was simply electric. The food was of course amazing. We indulged in a steaming bowl of ramen everyday (from Nogata and Ippudo to no-name hole-in-wall joints) and snacked at every chance at the heavenly departmental food halls and wolved down fresh sushi at the Standing Sushi Bar. If you are not into food, you're at the wrong place.

On our first night, Yuko brought us to a fantastico tofu kaiseki restaurant, Umenohana, in Ginza (they have many branches) and we feasted on sublime multi courses of exquisite tofu creations - in soups, disguised in a cheese gratin, etc. The second night, we met her Italian-speaking amici for an all-you-can-eat/drink shabu shabu dinner in the thick of Shinjuku. We also paid extra for 90mins of all-you-can-drink - good value considering we can easily knock back 3 Sapporo and a shochu lemon for the road.

Tokyo is quite big so we had to make the most of each day even though we'd be spending 5 days in the citta. As the appointed tour guide, I made sure we devoted time to each section - West (Shinjuku, Shibuya, Roppongi), East (Ueno) and Central Tokyo (Ginza). Sunday was the best time to visit Meiji Shrine in the heart of the lush Yoyogi Park as there are usually a few traditional weddings in procession, followed by a jaunt to Harujuku, a mecca for the young, the bold, beautiful, ugly and weird. You can just spend your whole day people watching - it's much more entertaining than tv or movies.

Japan is quite fascinating in the sense that its general population seems serious, reserved and traditional but at the same time, there's the other side which is edgy, dangerously mad and unpredictable. There are age-old customs and rituals but yet there is plenty of room for making new rules, progression and originality. Maybe people are so polite that they would not criticise the daredevils. Maybe people can't take the suppression that they snap and break free in search of their own identities. Perhaps Singapore will be like this in time.

It is also the epitome of consumerism - everyone is decked out from head to toe in luxe brands, heavy with mascara-ed lashes to blonde hair and hanging onto a bevy of handheld gadgets as seen on the train. Packaging is everything but they also pay attention to quality (we're talking about food here). They obviously love their seafood - judging by the sheer size of the Tsukiji fish market which is a great haunt for food lovers and chefs. I have been to many fresh markets but this one is the mother of all fish markets. The tuna auctions are a major attraction and start at 4am but we only managed to get there at 7.15am after a short stroll from the boutique Hotel Gracery in Ginza (great location, lovely room for its price).

There are all kinds of live fishes, shellfish, hairy crustaceans, sacks of ikura and fishcakes. I actually felt sorry for the much prized tuna as they laid frozen, covered in straw mats with just a sliced portion of their tail end that exposed their bright red bloody flesh. I remember seeing these gigantic petrified creatures hauled up in  huge fishing nets and being speared up by the fishermen on telly. Blue fin tuna are becoming an endangered species, so let's consume less of them to give them a chance. After Tokyo, we also spent a night at the quaint lil' hot spring town of Hakone.

This was our 'Japan Hour' fantasy come true as we lapped up the gorgeous tatami room with a private hot spring bath in our balcony, followed by a full-on 8-course gourmet dinner. Luckily we wore our loose yukata robes! Sleeping on the floor (despite the bellowy comforter) takes some getting used to but after a hot soak, it's not hard to drift off. We couldn't wait for Kyoto, Nara and Osaka!  

Luna Di Cielo

It's a gorgeous full moon outside tonight - everyone's out celebrating Mid Autumn Festival in full force. Me, I had my fair share of mooncakes already and trying to digest my 2 full meals today. These days, my diary has been chock-a-block with tastings - given the number of new accounts - and my belly is looking quite chubby.

My biz partners and I couldn't believe it's our 10th anniversary next year and we're tossing ideas for a fun party to thank family, friends and clients - and doing it our way. Our office is buzzing now that there are 7 of us. It's a proper office alright ;)

The Lion citta' is pumping with F1 buzz and lucky me got passes to catch the action upclose, although I don't see why everyone's excited about the sport - including L who loves his Grand Prix like every full blooded Italiano. He has been in an extremely good mood since getting his motorbike licence, and we've been zooming around town on his new moto. I think he'd be truly over the moon in 2 weeks' time when we land in Nihon - can't wait!

Love Is All Around

As corny as this might sound, love is really all around - if we bother to look in the right places or even ask for it to manifest itself. I found 'love' everywhere - in nature and even on this adorable cat (nicknamed 'Amore') at an animal shelter! It literally has 'love' written over it. Enjoy my photos below - they convey pure love and light... your task this month is to look for 'love' too :)

Love on the ground

Love in the canopy

Love in the skies

Love on 'Amore' il gatto