After we checked in, we tried to orientate ourselves by looking at the map and once we locate the distance between our apartments and Hilton, we realised how ridiculously small the scale is. At 4pm, everyone was taking a siesta. We couldn't get into the ornate Tua Pek Kong temple or find a decent cafe for tea.
The Main Bazaar souvenir shops didn't have any wares that could part us from our ringgit while the makeshift stallholders outside the shops desperately tried to sell us their tongkali, aprodisiac potions and toxic multi-hue kuehs and sponge rolls.
At 6pm, we were hungry and found Top Spot easily above a multi-storey carpark (just behind our apartments) - where locals and tourists go for a seafood feast. It is almost like East Coast seafood centre where there are many zhee char seafood stalls vying for your attention with their display of fishes, veggies and other ingredients. The fish expert, my dad decided on ABC seafood because their fishes looked the freshest. Boy, was it cheap! The garoupa was MYR56 (S$22), the two crabs cooked in Sarawak black pepper cost MYR24 (S$10!) while the steamed big pomfret went for just MYR36 (S$14). We ate and busted our cholesterol levels, and toasted to my mom's 59th birthday. We love you, mamma!
The next day, we left early in a private van to Batang Ai Hilton for a luxury longhouse experience. Sis and I decided we're not going to risk staying in a traditional longhouse where the headhunters used to kill their enemies and where we have to sleep on mattresses (bedbugs scare). Don't get me wrong, I'd be happy to camp in a caravan or sleep under the stars but that'd be for another trip. Plus it didn't cost much to stay in the Hilton longhouse, the only gripe was it was so damn far. We spent 4 hrs in the van which was skilfully manouvered by our driver through the drizzle all afternoon. 
We stopped for a taste of kolo mee, another local delight of plain maggi noodles with char siew but I'd take my laksa anytime. Before long, we reached the lake and made our way to Hilton in a little motorised boat. I must say the scenery was lovely and untouched - no other houses in sight across the lush islets in this man-made dam. The sunset and sunrise were also gorgeous.
After check-in, we went for a traditional longhouse tour 40mins away by longboat. Our guide said this was the nearest longhouse; he has even brought people to a longhouse 4 hours away by boat and hike. I guess those are the types of longhouses where they still headhunt.
When we got there, boy were we glad we didn't opt for a homestay and we also counted our blessings as Singaporeans with our modern comforts. The longhouse comprised a row of 'homes' and the 300+ residents shared a communal corridor space and deck where they do their washing and cooking etc. The head chief has 2 wives and god-knows how many offsprings, and replied to our questions shyly via our guide.
There were a few handicrafts on display for sale to curious crowd like us - from carved wooden sculptures and handwoven baskets, hats and mats. We were more taken with the longhouse cats and kids, than the souvenirs. Soon it was time to go and we indulged in a well deserved lunch of Sarawak laksa (the no.1 reason why I came to Sarawak) and long lazy afternoon nap at The Hilton. At dinnertime, we were surprised to see so many people at the restaurant - it wasn't so remote after all. 
The next day after brekkie, we decided on a guided hike in the forest, still moist from the rain. It was humid and soon, we were all dripping with sweat. It was adventurous at the same time as the guide took us through gentle slopes and a tightrope bridge for another scenic view of the surroundings. I'm glad that the world still has these natural spots for animals and plants and hope that we will all protect and treasure what we have on planet earth.
